This recipe is adapted from Fuschia Dunlop's version in Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook—the recipe I consulted when I wanted to master this dish. These days I make this a lot looser, following the curiosity of my palate and the ingredients available to me. Dunlop recommends many variations, including adding bean curd puffs or water chestnuts. An invitation to make it your own. —Tracy Wan
The weight of authenticity in food shouldn’t be the immigrant’s to carry. It’s the impossible task of replicating conditions that will never exist again—not in our present-day kitchens, and not in the places we once called home.