How To Grill Every Type Of Protein On A BBQ
(Paper art and production, Aimee Nishitoba; photography by Christie Vuong; paper art created on the Cricut Maker® 3, cricut.com.)
Cooking dinner over fire is a deeply sensory experience: the smoke, the hiss, the little burst of drama when cold food hits the hot grill. For me, the smell of grilled meat, fish or tofu is the experience of summer itself.
When any protein is laid on a searingly hot grill, a cascade of reactions begin almost immediately. Understanding what those reactions are—and how they differ depending on what you’re cooking—is the key to getting great results every time you turn on the grill.
1. Steak
Steak is a forgiving protein, which is why it’s such a great starting point for building grilling confidence.
The oil
A high-smoke-point oil like avocado, grapeseed or refined vegetable oil. Brush it directly onto the steak, and lightly on the grates. This encourages even browning and prevents sticking.
The heat
Preheat one side of your grill to high (around 450F to 500F) and leave the other side on low or off entirely. Sear the steak over direct high heat for 3 to 4 min per side without moving it. You want the meat to release naturally from the grates before you flip; if it resists, it’s telling you it’s not ready.
The finish
For cuts thicker than 1 in., move the steak to the cooler side of the grill, close the lid and let the interior come up to temperature. This method gives you a crust without a grey, overcooked band just beneath it.
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Doneness
Pull the steak at 125F for medium-rare. The residual heat will carry it a few degrees higher as it rests. And rest it you must, for at least 5 min. Cutting in too early releases the juices onto your board instead of keeping them in the meat where they belong.
A note on seasoning
Salt the steak generously at least 40 min before cooking, or immediately before the meat hits the grill. Salting in between that window will draw moisture to the surface without enough time for it to reabsorb, and you’ll end up steaming the steak.
Kitchen tip
When a recipe calls for two-zone cooking (a.k.a. using both direct and indirect heat), and you’re using a charcoal grill, bank the coals to one side.
2. Bone-In Chicken
Bone-in thighs and drumsticks contain more collagen than chicken breasts, and therefore need more cooking time for it to break down into gelatin. (This is what gives slow-cooked chicken thighs their silky, fall-apart quality.)
If you pull a chicken thigh at the food-safe threshold of 165F, it will be safe to eat, but a little rubbery. Aim instead for at least 175F.
The oil
The skin provides its own fat, but lightly oiling the grates before cooking prevents sticking.
The heat
Start over medium heat (350F) with the skin-side down. Leave the chicken undisturbed for 6 to 8 min, depending on the cut. The skin needs time to render its fat and crisp up; if you move it too soon, it will tear and stick.
The finish
Once the skin is golden and the chicken lifts easily, flip it, then move everything to the indirect heat side and close the lid. This creates an oven-like environment that cooks the meat without burning the exterior. Brush on glaze or sauce during the final minutes of cooking so the sugars caramelize.
Doneness
Use an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh or drumstick, away from the bone. Pull it at 175F to 180F for outrageously tender dark meat.
3. Tofu
Tofu is surprisingly rewarding to grill, but it requires a bit of prep. The enemy of a good sear is moisture, and tofu is roughly 85 percent water by weight.
Pressing is essential. Wrap a block of firm or extra-firm tofu in a clean towel and set something heavy on top for at least 30 min before grilling. This drives out excess water and allows the surface to brown rather than steam. (Silken or soft tofu will not hold up on a grill.)
The oil
Tofu has no fat, so it needs to be brushed generously with a high-smoke-point oil on all sides before grilling, and the grates need to be well-oiled, too. This is the step most people skip, and it’s the reason tofu has a reputation for sticking.
The heat
Tofu is already cooked; you’re not trying to bring it to a food-safe temperature. The goal, instead, is a firm, golden crust on each side, which you can achieve on medium-high direct heat. Give it 4 to 5 min per side. Like all protein, it will release from the grates when it’s properly seared.
Kitchen tip
Marinating pressed tofu for at least an hour before grilling adds enormous flavour. Because tofu is porous, it absorbs marinades well. Think: soy sauce, citrus, garlic and a touch of sesame oil.
4. Fish
Most home cooks are nervous about grilling fish, and for good reason: it cooks fast, flakes apart and it can aggressively stick to grill grates. The fundamental challenge with fish is that its proteins denature at a lower temperature than meat. Most fish is done around 125F, depending on the species and your preference, which means it goes from perfectly cooked to dry and hard very quickly. The window is narrow, but the right technique can address this.
Skin-on fillets are your friend. The skin acts as a natural barrier between the delicate flesh and the direct heat. It also makes sticking less likely, since you’re cooking skin-side down the entire time without flipping.
The oil
Brush the fish with a neutral, high-smoke-point oil, and oil the grates thoroughly using tongs and a paper towel dipped in oil. Do this right before the fish goes on, while the grill is already hot.
The heat
Medium-high heat (around 400F to 450F). A preheated grill is the single most important factor to prevent sticking; preheat yours for at least 10 min.
The finish
Place fillets skin-side down, close the lid, and leave them alone. For a 1-in. thick fillet, 6 to 8 min of cooking time is sufficient. You generally don’t need to flip a skin-on fillet. The flesh will turn opaque from the bottom up, and the fish is ready when it flakes easily and the thickest part reaches 125F to 130F.
If the fish sticks when you try to lift it, do not force it. Give it another 30 sec. A properly seared fillet releases cleanly on its own.
For delicate, flaky fish like sole or tilapia, use a grill basket or a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Brush the basket or foil with oil, lay the fish on top and set the whole thing directly on the grates. You get the smoky flavour without the heartbreak of a broken-up fillet.
Kitchen tip
Start with the highest quality fish possible. Look for sushi- or sashimi-grade labels; while not a government certification, this indicates the fish was flash-frozen to kill parasites. This doesn’t replace the food safety-recommended 145F internal temp, but it is the chef’s standard for moist and flaky fish.
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Jennifer Pallian is a food scientist, recipe developer and blogger at Foodess. She lives in Vancouver.
