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Estrogen and progesterone play major roles in the health and appearance of skin. And as levels of these hormones fluctuate, skin can start sagging and gets thinner, drier and more sensitive. At the same time—but unrelated to the hormonal mayhem of perimenopause—hyperpigmentation caused by sun exposure often starts to appear. What glorious timing, you might be thinking. The good news? The right skincare can help.
“In your 20s, skincare doesn’t generally have a big visual impact,” says cosmetic chemist Annie Graham, owner of Atomic Pom Labs in Calgary. “Around your 40s, though, you start to see the magic of your products.”
While key skincare ingredients remain the same for perimenopausal women—including ceramides, peptides, vitamin C, retinoids and chemical exfoliants—what does change is the concentration of these ingredients.
“You’ll need stronger concentrations, if you can tolerate them, to see better results,” says Dr. Geeta Yadav, founder of Facet Dermatology in Toronto. “You’ll also need richer formulas.”
Here are ingredients to look for in the beauty aisle—and when to use them.
Use a vitamin C serum with 10 percent L-ascorbic acid or higher to tackle hyperpigmentation.
Pick a sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Aside from protecting against cancer, sunscreen also prevents hyperpigmentation.
Choose a lighter face cream for the day and a richer one for the evening. Both should contain some of the following: peptides, which provide collagen support; barrier-boosting ceramides; niacinamide (a.k.a. vitamin B3), which can improve texture and the appearance of wrinkles, reduce hyperpigmentation and encourage ceramide production (look for a concentration of 2 to 5 percent); and fatty acids such as trigylcerides.
Use a cleansing balm that contains oil. “It’s gentler on the skin and leaves more moisture behind,” says Yadev.
Every other night, try a chemical exfoliant, such as glycolic or lactic acid. “They help shed dead, dull skin that builds up on the surface as cellular turnover slows down,” says Yadav. Start with a product containing a lower percentage of acid and work your way up to a higher one if your skin can tolerate it.
Also use a retinoid or retinol every other night. “I’d recommend a prescription-strength retinoid in menopause,” says Yadev. (Go for an over-the-counter retinol if you’re concerned about irritation.)
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