A Beginner’s Guide To Retinol

Retinol—a derivative of vitamin A that boasts a long list of proven benefits—has been called the holy grail of skincare ingredients. And with results that include improved skin texture, boosted collagen production and diminished dark spots, it's easy to see why. But the powerhouse active also comes with its fair share of side effects, like irritation, redness and dry skin.

We asked Dr. Julia Carroll, a dermatologist at Toronto-based Compass Dermatology, and Amanda Mizen, a medical aesthetician and founder of Toronto-based North Medical Spa, for advice on how to use retinol and minimize irritation.

What is retinol?

Retinol is a type of retinoid, derived from vitamin A. It's naturally produced by your body and aids in boosting cell turnover to kickstart collagen production and help reduce fine lines and wrinkles. It's also a proven treatment for acne and hyperpigmentation.

"Retinol is the sibling to the more powerful topical retinoids, which require a prescription," says Carroll. It's a gentler type of vitamin A that's typically used in mass-market skincare products.

What are the skincare benefits of using retinol?

Retinol helps unclog pores, exfoliate and smooth skin and diminishes the appearance of hyperpigmentation. It also help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. "It is the ultimate skincare ingredient," says Mizen.

According to Carroll, the active ingredient can also thicken the dermis (the layer below the surface of the skin) over time, which makes skin healthier in the long run.

Can all skin types use retinol?

Carroll says that any skin type and skin tone can use the ingredient, but sensitive skin types should be extra cautious. It tends to be harder for reactive and allergic skin to adjust. Mizen doesn't recommend it for people who have skin that's been over-exfoliated (from at-home or in-office treatments), or skin that's sun-damaged. Retinol can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, so you should always wear SPF when using it.

It is advised to avoid retinol when pregnant.

When should I start using retinol?

Mizen recommends starting retinol in your thirties, when collagen levels in the skin have been shown to decrease more rapidly. But almost all ages can reap the rewards of the ingredient. "Dermatologists use retinoids for teens with acne (note: this should always be done under medical supervision), so when I prescribe it I will often explain the long-term benefits and will recommend that they continue to use the retinoid even after I have cleared their acne," says Carroll.

How do I incorporate retinol into my skincare routine?

"My first tip is to try the low-and-slow approach," says Carroll. "Start with a very small, pea-sized amount, and then wait a few days to evaluate your tolerance." If you don't get a reaction, Carroll recommends trying it again. If the product makes your skin red and flaky, she suggests mixing the retinol formula with your moisturizer or using it on top of the moisturizer. In a nutshell, apply retinol once a week at first to see how your skin reacts. Then gradually work up to every other day or three times a week.

Another key tip for using retinol products is to incorporate it into your nighttime skincare routine only, as it makes skin more sensitive to sunlight. Mizen and Carroll both stress the importance of using sunscreen with retinol. "You should be wearing at minimum an SPF 50 on a daily basis regardless of whether you are using a topical retinoid or not," says Carroll. She advises looking for a formula that protects against both UVA and UVB rays, as well as one that is recognized by the Canadian Dermatology Association.

Why do some skin types react to retinol?

Retinol can do a lot of good, but it can occasionally cause redness, flaking and dry skin. According to both Carroll and Mizen, there are several reasons why skin might have adverse reactions. They include using it too often, using too much of it, not prepping your skin properly (retinol should always be applied to clean and dry skin) or mixing it with other harsh ingredients, like alpha-hydroxy acids or acne treatments.

What should I do if my skin has a bad reaction to retinol?

"Typically reactions aren’t too difficult to manage—it is often just dryness and irritation," says Mizen. "A mild reaction can be common as your skin adjusts to use." Both Carroll and Mizen suggest discontinuing use if your skin is irritated. It is also a good idea to stop using other skincare products that contain active ingredients. Pare back your routine to a gentle cleanser to wash your face, a fragrance-free moisturizer and a sunscreen.

Once the reaction has resolved, you can try it again. "Using the product less frequently—but on a regular schedule—can be a way to improve tolerability," says Carroll.

What is the best form of retinol to use on my skin?

With seemingly endless options to choose from, figuring out which one is best for you can be challenging. If you're new, start out with a low dose of around 0.25 percent. (The highest percentage of retinol available without a prescription in Canada is one percent.) If your skin has no adverse reactions, you can slowly move up to a higher percentage.

Choose an encapsulated retinol, which means the ingredient is housed in a carrier system within the cream or serum. This delivery system improves the ingredient's ability to penetrate the skin. She adds that these products tend to be more stable and leave skin feeling hydrated.

Shop our favourite editor-approved retinol products.

Grace & Stella Restoring Eye Masks, $28 for 24 pairs

Vancouver-based brand Grace & Stella is known for its collection of eye masks to tackle issues ranging from hydration to fine lines. These gel eye masks are infused with retinol, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and glycerin to lift, firm and wake up tired eyes.

IOPE Expert Retinol RX™ 2% Reti-Jection Serum, $77

This serum by K-beauty brand IOPE features a microneedle-like delivery technology that allows the product to absorb better into the skin to maximize results.

RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Night Serum Capsules, $48 for 30 capsules

Each one of these biodegradable capsules contains a powerful dose of retinol to firm and smooth the skin, as well as gentle ceramides. Sealed tight to maintain the potency of the ingredient, each capsule provides one nightly application. Throw a few of these travel-friendly micro-doses into your carry-on travel beauty bag.

CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum, $30

This wallet-friendly serum pairs encapsulated retinol with heavy-hitters like niacinamide and licorice root extract to calm and brighten the skin. It also contains the brand's signature ceramides to help repair the skin barrier and minimize potential irritation.

Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum, $149

This fast-acting serum targets fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin texture with its 3.5 percent retinoid complex that allows for a continual release of three types of retinols. In addition to that powerful skin-smoothing punch, the formula also contains squalane to soothe and beta-glucan to hydrate.

Summer Fridays Jet Lag Overnight Eye Serum, $65

Part of Summer Fridays’s popular Jet Lag line, this eye serum offers up a trifecta of care for the delicate skin around the eyes. With a vegan formula and a melting balm texture, it helps brighten dark circles, soften fine lines and hydrate thanks to retinol, glycerin and licorice root extract.

Vichy Liftactiv 0.2% Pure Retinol Anti-Aging Serum, $70

Formulated with 0.2 percent pure retinol, hyaluronic acid and probiotics, this fragrance-free serum is an excellent choice for sensitive skin types. We love the precise applicator, which makes for mess-free use.

Jouviance Restructiv 3D-Retinol+ Multi-Action Cream, $79

This cream by Montreal-based Jouviance pairs encapsulated retinol with bakuchiol to target the first signs of skin aging. The addition of peptides helps minimize dryness and irritation.

The Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane, $12

This serum by Canadian brand The Ordinary combines 0.5 percent pure retinol paired with gentle squalane to softens wrinkles and improves the look of dark spots without causing irritation.