Everything You Need To Know About Hyaluronic Acid

If you've bought a moisturizer or a serum in recent years, you're likely already familiar with hyaluronic acid. It's not just a buzzy skincare ingredient—hyaluronic acid (or HA, for short) is also produced by our bodies to retain water, which helps plump the skin. When applied topically, it has the same effect and delivers a more hydrated complexion.

It's an ingredients that's made the rounds for years but never falls out of favour, and for good reason: it's suitable for every skin type and it delivers on its promises. Read on for expert tips on how to use hyaluronic acid skincare from Dr. Sonya Abdulla, a Toronto-based dermatologist, and Ellis Holevas, an educator for Canadian skincare brand AlumierMD.

What is hyaluronic acid and what does it do for the skin?

"Hyaluronic acid is naturally produced in the dermal layer of the skin," says Holevas. It gives your skin structure and acts as a magnet for moisture, drawing water into the skin to boost hydration levels. It holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water and has anti-aging benefits, leaving skin plumper, softer and smoother, she adds. Unfortunately, according to Abdulla, we lose approximately one percent of our hyaluronic acid stores per year after the age of 30. Additionally, mature skin also produces less of its own hyaluronic acid, which is partly what leads to crepe-y texture, visible fine lines and volume loss. Adding hyaluronic acid to your skincare routine can help counter the loss of natural stores.

Are there different types of hyaluronic acid?

There are different types of hyaluronic acid used in skincare. "The molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid molecule will dictate the depth where it is found in your skin," explains Abdulla. Due to its larger size, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid sits on top of the skin to plump, while a low molecular weight is small enough to penetrate into the dermis to help replenish the loss that occurs during the aging process, says Holevas. In addition to re-upping the natural levels found in the skin, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid also supports collagen production and firms the skin. Holevas says that a combination of both high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is the best way to reap all the benefits the ingredient offers. When shopping, look closely at product packaging as brands often indicate on the box if a formula contains hyaluronic acid with a low or high molecular weight (or both).

When should I use hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is gentle and well-tolerated by almost every skin type, so it can be added to your daily rotation.

While some skincare ingredients, like retinol, are best used at night and others, like vitamin C, work their magic in the daytime, hyaluronic acid can be used both morning and night. "I recommend use of a hyaluronic acid serum up to twice daily, depending on your skin's needs," says Abdulla. "Skincare masks formulated with hyaluronic acid can be used whenever you have time to squeeze it in, as a boosting treatment."

How do I apply hyaluronic acid?

"Cleanse skin, lightly pat it dry and then apply your hyaluronic acid product," says Holevas. "It's best applied on slightly damp skin, as the hyaluronic acid will then bind the moisture."

Can I mix hyaluronic acid with other skincare ingredients?

Hyaluronic acid is gentle on the skin and it pairs well with other ingredients, including other actives like retinol. You can layer hyaluronic acid with harsher ingredients, like retinol or exfoliating acids, but be sure to let the products sink into your skin after each step.

Pro tip: You can use a hyaluronic acid serum or moisturizer to create a buffer against harsher ingredients, like retinol, and prevent some of their less desirable side-effects—think irritation, redness or peeling.

How do I pick the right hyaluronic acid skincare for me?

Hyaluronic acid is all over the beauty aisles, in products ranging from face washes and sheet masks to toners and moisturizers, but Abdulla recommends reaching for a serum whenever possible. "Serums are the most effective way to deliver active ingredients to the skin," she explains. "In the case of hyaluronic acid, a water-based serum formula optimizes its effects." When applied correctly, a serum that contains hyaluronic acid will leave your skin feeling plump and smooth.

With some ingredients, looking for a high percentage of active in the product is key—not so with hyaluronic acid. In a pure form, Abdulla says the percentage will likely hover around one percent in a serum. Anything more could have the opposite of the desired effect, acting as a sponge to draw moisture away from skin rather than replenish hydration levels.

Is there a difference between more expensive hyaluronic acid skincare and a cheaper option?

Wondering if it's worth splurging on a more expensive product or if a drugstore skincare dupe will work just as well? Since hyaluronic acid isn't known to irritate the skin (like, say, retinol), a more affordable formula will most certainly work just as well, depending on your preferences and your skin's needs. Just be sure to look for a fragrance-free formula and a streamlined ingredient list wherever possible to avoid potential irritants.

Want to try the plumping ingredient? Shop our editor-approved hyaluronic acid favourites.

Aestura Atobarrier365 Hydro Cera-Ha Serum, $46

This barrier-repairing formula by K-beauty brand Aestura pairs hyaluronic acid with ceramides to help strengthen ultra-sensitive skin. The lightweight texture absorbs quickly, making it ideal for layering under makeup.

CeraVe Hydrating Serum with Hyaluronic Acid, $24

CeraVe is beloved by beauty editors and industry experts for its no-frills formulas that deliver gentle hydration. This gel-cream serum blends hyaluronic acid with the brand's signature ceramides to deliver lasting hydration without the irritation.

Cosrx Hyaluronic Acid Intensive Cream, $29

Consider this rich cream a tall drink of water for you skin. The formula uses hyaluronic acid to boost moisture levels and delivers a finish that’s radiant without being greasy.

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Serum, $12

This budget-friendly serum features multi-weight hyaluronic acid to plump skin, pro-vitamin B5 (a.k.a. panthenol) to strengthen skin and ceramides to lock-in moisture. The formula absorbs quickly without leaving behind a tacky feel. 

Bubble Water Slide Hydration Boosting Serum, $25

This milky serum is cheap and cheerful, making it the perfect addition to an everyday routine. Powered by hyaluronic acid, peptides and niacinamide, it’s a dry skin MVP.

Grace & Stella Illuminating Eye Masks, $14 for 6 pairs

Pop on these cooling hydrogel mask for an instantly plumper and brighter under-eye area. Their blend of hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, glycerin and green tea extract work to de-puff and smooth out fine lines.

Anua PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Capsule Mist, $35

Mist meets serum in this innovative formula that releases micro-capsules of hydration with every spritz for a dewy boost of hydration. Apply first-thing in the morning, or keep it on hand for a quick refresh throughout the day.

Naturium Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Serum 5%, $29

This gel-like serum uses four molecular weights of hyaluronic acid to penetrate skin more deeply and deliver longer-lasting plumpness.

SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Mask, $88

Inspired by the brand’s iconic Hydrating B5 Gel, this highly concentrated mask soothes stressed skin with hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5. Its cooling gel texture makes it a perfect addition to any late-night self-care routine.

Medik8 Hydr8 B5 Intense Serum, $99

Infused with hyaluronic acid, vitamin B5, natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and Saskatoon berry, this luxe formula works to replenish and recharge skin.

Dermalogica Circular Hydration Serum, $106

This serum is a dream for parched, sensitive skin. It's packed with hyaluronic acid, algae extracts and polyglutamic acid (a peptide derived from fermented soy) to amp up hydrations levels for up to 10 hours.

Good Molecules Hyaluronic Acid Serum, $10

Ringing in at just $10, this serum delivers plenty of hydration, without the frills. Its lightweight consistency makes it easy to incorporate into any skincare routine.

Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Serum, $54

Looking for juicy skin? This plumping serum boasts a powerful blend of antioxidant-rich plums, vegan collagen and silk proteins to leave skin instantly nourished and dewy.

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Serum, $23

This fragrance-free formula is a drugstore favourite and a great pick for all skin types. It's infused with hyaluronic acid in various molecular weights to plump and hydrate.