How To Find Skincare Dupes That Actually Work

Building and maintaining a beauty routine has gotten increasingly expensive. Yet despite sky-high prices brought on by inflation, the skincare market in Canada is set to generate US$2.19 billion in revenue by 2026. And as the price of our favourite products increases, so does our desire to find a good deal: the search term “dupe” has garnered an enormous 4.7 billion views on TikTok, with many videos focused on recommending affordable skincare options that rival luxury formulations. Here, we breakdown everything you need to know about skincare dupes and ask experts to weigh in on what makes a good one.

What is a dupe?

A “dupe”—short for duplicate—is a term used by content creators and beauty experts to refer to more affordable or readily available versions of pricey makeup and skincare products. Introduced in the 2000s via beauty blogs and YouTube makeup tutorials, the dupe trend now goes beyond beauty—think athleisure, cookware and designer clothes—thanks to TikTok. If it’s expensive, hard to find or viral on social media, chances are someone out there has found a cheaper alternative. Moreover, brands are cashing in on the craze by formulating products that are specifically designed to look similar—either via names, packaging, ingredients or all of the above—to viral or cult products, in hopes to entice consumers to try their budget-friendly versions.

When it comes to skincare, a dupe is often formulated with similar ingredients to mimic the appearance, feel and—in the best case scenario—results of a higher-end product at a lower price point. A whole slew of platforms—Skinskool, DupeDrop and Brandefy —have popped up over the years, purporting to help shoppers compare ingredients to find copycats of their favourite products.

While there’s undeniably a thrill associated with finding a bargain, savvy shoppers are increasingly turning to dupes out of necessity. Because many of us can't afford to routinely shell out $80 for an eye cream by a legacy brand that may not provide results or risk $60 for a cleanser that may cause breakouts, dupes are a great way to explore the latest trends.

Related: Do Skincare And Makeup Products *Really* Expire?

Can an ingredient list tell you whether a product is a true dupe?

There’s more to a good dupe than a similar ingredient list and a luxurious feel. Unlike makeup products—where the focus is on the shade match, appearance and wear time—skincare products contain a complex blend of ingredients focused on delivering specific results, like the smoothing of fine lines or the fading of acne scars. Plus, a skincare product’s outcome isn’t immediate. Because of these factors, affordable alternatives in skincare are more difficult to find, explains Esther Olu, a U.S.-based cosmetic chemist and licensed esthetician.

While comparing the ingredient list between two products is a good starting point when looking for a cheaper alternative, both Olu and Dr. Julia Bao, a chemist and founder of Markham, Ont.-based skincare brand BAO Laboratory, point out that the ingredients only tell part of the story.

“There is no way for a consumer to discern if something is a dupe just by comparing ingredients between a lower and higher-priced product, as concentration can make a difference,” says Olu. “Consumers don’t know where ingredients are sourced, [which] can greatly impact the efficacy of an ingredient, as well as its purity,” she adds.

Olu continues on to explain that comparing ingredients doesn’t account for the grade used or any patented technologies that might have been developed by a brand to process the ingredient. For example, dimethicone, an ingredient widely used in moisturizers to give formulas a silky smooth feel, comes in different grades, which impacts how a product feels on skin; on ingredient lists, only dimethicone is listed, regardless of its grade.

“It's important to clarify that creating a true dupe—[an] replica of a skincare product—without permission is illegal and unethical,” says Bao. However, many products on the market claim to be comparable to high-end or popular products, using similar ingredients to deliver similar results.

Do expensive products work better?

Price isn’t always a reliable indicator of a product’s quality. “Effective skincare products are available at a variety of price points,” says Dr. Katie Beleznay, a dermatologist practicing in Vancouver who has amassed a large following on Instagram and TikTok for her beauty tips and affordable skincare recommendations. “Many of the large drugstore brands have significant research and development budgets and they develop high-quality products.” What’s more, some drugstore brands are owned by the same parent companies as luxury ones, and have access to their research and technologies.

While quality products can often be found at a low price, there are instances when splurging is a good idea. This could be if you’re after a product that targets a specific skin concern, like rosacea and hyperpigmentation, or when a product has undergone clinical testing or trials to scientifically back its claims.

Dr. Dusan Sajic, a dual board-certified dermatologist and adjunct assistant professor at McMaster University in Hamilton, Ont, also points out that one might consider paying more for a product when active ingredients, such as retinol, vitamin C and peptides, are involved.

Though lauded for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as its ability to tone and brighten skin, vitamin C is also an unstable ingredient and can degrade when exposed to light, heat and air. “Some [more] may use a less stable form of vitamin C, which can be less effective and may even cause skin irritation,” he explains.

Related: Meet The Underrated Ingredient That Targets Rosacea, Acne And Hyperpigmentation

What’s the best way to identify a good dupe?

"In my opinion, two factors that make a product a comparable dupe are sensory—how a product feels, smells and looks—and efficacy," says Olu.

That said, everybody’s needs are different, so there’s no one-size-fits-all strategy for finding good, effective skincare dupes. Bao and Olu also note that what works on one person’s specific skin type may not always work on another skin type. Other than researching and approaching reviews from multiple sources with a critical eye, skincare experts agree that the best way is to experiment. Rather than focusing on finding a dupe of an expensive product, Bao and Olu suggest focusing on finding the best product for your skin at a price that works for you. “Be patient,” urges Bao. “Finding the right skincare product, whether it's a high-end product or a dupe, takes time and experimentation. Don't be discouraged if it takes a few tries to find a product that works well for your skin.”

With countless beauty launches, breakthrough brands and content creators featuring irresistibly low-priced products, dupe culture goes hand in hand with overconsumption—the more dupes we buy to stay on top of trends, the more we throw out. The answer might be to approach our skincare routines with the same careful consideration with which we research dupes and purchase only what we really need.

These products are often touted as dupes for more expensive formulas. They may not be exact replicas, but we guarantee they actually work.

Byoma Creamy Jelly Cleanser, $17

An affordable alternative to the Drunk Elephant Beste No. 9 Jelly Cleanser ($46), this blend of ceramides, licorice root and green tea cleanses skin while feeling it feeling soft and supple.

E.l.f. Holy Hydration! Face Cream, $16

For a cheaper alternative to the Tula Skincare 24-7 Moisture Hydrating Day & Night Cream ($79), try this budget-friendly cream. The lightweight formula is packed with key ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, squalane and peptides to keep skin hydrated.

Paula’s Choice C15 Vitamin C Super Booster, $75

Like the cult-favourite SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic ($208), this serum is formulated with a cocktail of 15% vitamin C, ferulic acid and vitamin E to brighten and firm. While it's slightly more expensive than other products on this list, the ultra-effective formula is much cheaper than its counterpart and absolutely worth the splurge.

Pixi Hydrating Milky Mist, $20

Swap the pricey Tatcha Luminous Dewy Skin Mist ($66) for this drugstore version. The combination of hyaluronic acid, B vitamin complex and oat extract delivers a powerful boost of hydration for those with dry skin. Though made for use before applying makeup, this ultra-fine mist absorbs quickly and can be applied throughout the day for a pick-me-up.

The Inkey List Ceramide Night Treatment, $20

Often compared to the Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Skin Barrier Moisturizing Cream ($65), this lightweight yet nourishing formula of ceramides and hyaluronic acid works to strengthen the skin barrier.