Everything You Need To Know About Azelaic Acid

When you think of skincare acids, exfoliating staples like glycolic and salicylic acids probably come to mind. While AHAs and BHAs are better known and often recommended, azelaic acid is an underrated ingredient that's finally starting to get some love.

The multi-tasking active is used to treat a wide array of skin conditions, and it's quickly gaining traction in the skincare world. It can help clear acne and hyperpigmentation and soothe redness and some types of rosacea, so it's no surprise that a slew of new products featuring azelaic acid are hitting the shelves.

Curious about the ingredient that's currently everywhere? We tapped two dermatologists to get the lowdown on what it is and how to incorporate it into your skincare routine.

What is azelaic acid?

According to Dr. Danny Guo, medical director and board-certified dermatologist at Rejuvenation Dermatology Clinic in Calgary, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid (a class of skincare acids that are often used to treat redness and rosacea) that is “an organic acid found in plants like wheat and barley.” It’s a by-product of the metabolism of the yeast Malassezia furfur, which naturally exists on the skin.

If the name Malassezia furfur rings a bell, it’s because you may have heard it before in reference to some common skin conditions, which can be triggered by a yeast overgrowth. “This is the yeast that lives on our skin and causes seborrheic dermatitis (a skin condition of the scalp), tinea versicolour (a fungal infection) and dandruff,” says Dr. Renita Ahluwalia, co-founder and lead dermatologist of the Canadian Dermatology Centre and lecturer at the University of Toronto.

While azelaic is an acid, like glycolic and salicylic, it's made of a completely different type of molecule. AHAs and BHAs primarily exfoliate the skin, which make them excellent ingredients for treating acne.

Azelaic acid is also used for treating acne, but unlike most acids, it doesn’t do so via exfoliation so it's a lot gentler on the skin. “It has some mild exfoliating properties but that’s not its primary [use],” says Ahluwalia.

What are the skincare benefits of azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid reduces inflammation and boasts antibacterial and antioxidant properties, while also combatting dark spots by targeting an enzyme responsible for pigment production. 

One of azelaic acid’s claims to fame is how gentle it is, meaning it can be used on all skin tones and skin types—including sensitive—with little irritation. “It tends to be milder so patients with sensitive skin do well, however it may not be as effective as some stronger ingredients [like],” says Ahluwalia.

Can azelaic acid treat rosacea?

Ahluwalia says that there have been significant studies to show that prescription-grade azelaic acid can be effective in treating some types of rosacea. The ingredient's anti-inflammatory properties can help treat papules and pustules commonly seen in patients with the condition, adds Guo.

The caveat is that there are four different types of rosacea: erythematotelangiectatic rosacea (ETR), papulopustular rosacea (PPR), phymatous rosacea and ocular rosacea.

Guo notes that the only type of rosacea that azelaic acid has clear evidence for as a treatment is PPR, which typically presents as red papules and pustules, not unlike inflammatory acne.

“In short, azelaic acid can effectively treat [certain] rosacea,” says Guo.

What should you look for when buying azelaic acid skincare?

As is the case with most active skincare ingredients, percentage is key. There are serums, moisturizers, masks and more available on the market with percentages ranging from 3 percent to 10 percent, and the best one for you depends on what you want to target.

According to Ahluwalia, prescription acne creams typically contain around 15 percent azelaic acid, while rosacea treatments might have a lower percentage.

For general skin brightening, she recommends using an even lower concentration of around 3 percent.

How do you incorporate azelaic acid into a skincare routine?

Regardless of percentage, Guo recommends slowly introducing azelaic acid into your routine.

Though it’s generally well-tolerated, he recommends using the ingredient two to three times per week to minimize the risk of irritation and to build up your skin’s tolerance. If your skin responds well after a few weeks of use, you can work your way up to daily application.

Guo also says that because azelaic acid can reduce pigmentation, applying it in the morning—along with sunscreen—is preferred to counteract sun exposure throughout the day. It's also perfectly safe to use at night.

Can you use azelaic acid with other skincare actives?

With so many ingredients packed into formulas, knowing what to use together is essential to minimize irritation and make the most out of every active—and that goes for azelaic acid, too. Both Guo and Ahluwalia share that because it's gentle, it’s often safe to combine with other skincare ingredients, including hyaluronic acid.

Here’s how to pair it with a few other popular actives.

Retinol

“Retinol can cause redness and irritation, so it’s better to add in azelaic acid only after your skin has had time to build tolerance to retinol, or vice versa,” says Guo. Together, both ingredients can work together to reduce hyperpigmentation and reduce breakouts.

Vitamin C

Like retinol, vitamin C can cause irritation. When pairing with azelaic acid, ensure your skin has had time to adjust to both ingredients before pairing together.

Niacimamide

Azelaic acid is especially great for treating hyperpigmentation, and it layers well with other dark spot-reducing go-tos. “I frequently combine azelaic acid with kojic acid, tranexamic acid and niacinamide,” says Guo.

The best azelaic acid products to shop in 2024

The Inkey List Super Solutions Redness Relief Solution, $24

The Inkey List is known for its highly active, wallet-friendly formulas, so it's no wonder this treatment tops our list of recommendations. The ingredient list is short but effective, with 10 percent azelaic acid and 0.3 percent allantoin to soothe skin.

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension, $16

Use this azelaic acid cream morning and night to reveal a brighter complexion and smoother skin. The gel consistency creates the perfect canvas for makeup.

Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial Brightening Mask, $90

In the mood to splurge? This pricey overnight mask contains 10 percent azelaic acid and one percent salicylic acid to exfoliate and unclog pores. The lightweight gel-cream formula offers a refreshing boost of hydration.

Dermalogica Clear Start Liquid Peel, $42

A cocktail of azelaic acid, 10 percent alpha-hydroxy acids and two percent beta-hydroxy acids make this serum an exfoliator extraordinaire for acne-prone and oily skin.

Skinfix Acne+ Azelaic Acid BHA/AHA Cleanser, $48

Formulated for oily skin, this ultra-gentle foaming cream cleanser resurfaces skin to minimize the appearance of pores. It contains a blend of azelaic acid, niacinamide and glycolic acid to immediately erase shine and improve the look of skin over time.

Filorga Sleep & Peel, $81

Inspired by in-office peels, this cream works while you sleep to slough off dead skin cells and refine uneven texture. You can expect to wake up to a glowing complexion.

Trinny London Overnight Clarity, $135

This leave-on overnight treatment boosts skin repair and targets hormonal breakouts, fine lines and wrinkles. It's formulated with retinol, niacinamide and azelaic acid.

SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment, $142

A daily brightening moisturizer, this lightweight lotion blends azelaic acid with alpha arbutin for a winning combo that promotes a more even skin tone. The oil-free formula works on radiance and texture, making it great to treat post-acne scars.