Everything You Need To Know About Peptides In Skincare

Staying on top of all the latest buzzy skincare ingredients (like ceramides, bakuchiol and cica, to name just a few) is a full-time job. New ones constantly pop up on our radar, and it can be challenging to decide what's worth splurging on. Case in point: Peptides have been around for a while, but they’ve been gaining a lot of buzz lately. Thanks to their purported ability to dial up the skin’s collagen production, they’re now found in countless moisturizers and serums.

We tapped two dermatologists to learn more about the buzzy ingredient. Read on for our guide on everything you need to know about peptides in skincare, including what they are, who can benefit from them and a few of our favourite peptide-rich formulas.

What are peptides?­­

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks for proteins essential to skin, such as keratin, collagen and elastin. They are essentially fragmented pieces of proteins, and their small size allows them to penetrate the skin.

“When applied topically, peptides are able to penetrate the outer layer of the skin, so they can be absorbed more deeply,” says dermatologist Dr. Victoria Taraska, who owns The Derm Centre in Winnipeg.

Hundreds of different types of peptides exist, though not all are used in skincare. Dr. Nazli Ghiasi, a Toronto-based dermatologist and the owner of MapleDerm, explains that what makes each peptide unique is the type and number of amino acids it contains and the order in which they are joined. For example, oligopeptides contain anywhere between two and 20 amino acids, while polypeptides contain over 20.

Peptides are naturally produced in the body and found in animals and plants. However, peptides in skincare are typically synthetic and made in labs.

What are the benefits of peptides in skincare?

Peptides have several functions, but they're best known for their ability to stimulate the production of collagen in skin, says Ghiasi. Collagen plays a major role in firmness, elasticity and hydration levels, and its production naturally decreases with age.

When applied topically, peptides are absorbed into skin and signal its cells to make more collagen, which helps minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, explains Taraska. Peptides also have anti-inflammatory and hydration-boosting benefits, which lead to clearer, smoother and more resilient skin.

While peptides are a promising skincare ingredient, both Taraska and Ghiasi warn that more research and data are needed to back their efficacy in skincare.

What are some of the most commonly used peptides in skincare?

“The list of commercially available peptides is long and always evolving,” says Ghiasi.

If you’re scanning a product’s ingredient list, keep in mind that different names may be used for the same type of peptide. Common peptides that you may recognize include acetyl-tetrapeptides, tripeptide-1, matrixyl and argireline.

Are peptides safe to use on all skin types?

Unlike retinol and some chemical exfoliants (like AHAs), peptides generally don’t cause irritation or redness and are safe to use on all skin types.

Both Taraska and Ghiasi say those with acne-prone skin should look for oil-free products and lighter textures, such as moisturizers for oily skin containing peptides. Dry skin types should look for richer formulas that provide plenty of hydration.

How do I add peptides to my current skincare routine?

Thanks to their gentle hydration-boosting power and ability to be used day or night, peptides are easy to incorporate into any existing skincare routine.

Ghiasi notes that peptides are safe to mix with most active skincare ingredients, such as retinol and vitamin C. However, proceed with caution as some types of peptides have been shown to cause irritation when used alongside AHAs, like glycolic and lactic acid.

From moisturizers to serums, there are a ton of different formulas on the market that contain this collagen-boosting ingredient. That said, peptides need to be absorbed into the skin to be effective, which means peptides-infused cleansers that are immediately rinsed off won’t allow the ingredient to do its job properly.

While peptides can promote healthy skin, both experts stress the importance of an all-encompassing daily skincare routine that will protect and nourish your skin, which includes using sunscreen to protect against UV rays, ceramides to strengthen your skin barrier and antioxidants, like vitamin C, to shield skin from environmental damage.

The best peptides skincare products to shop for 2024

The Inkey List Peptide Moisturizer, $23

An affordable option with a luxurious, pillowy texture, this daily moisturizer features a blend of peptides to help plump skin and kick hydration levels up a notch. It’s fragrance-free and has a short list of ingredients, which makes it perfect for sensitive skin.

Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream, $163

This eye cream has been dubbed "bleph in a bottle," referring to the trendy procedure where excess skin is removed from the eyelids to open up the eyes. It’s formulated with quinoa seed extract, astralagus, squalane and a powerful blend of peptides to firm, lift and moisturize. Unlike many eye creams, it can also be used all around the eye contour, including on the upper lids.

Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer, $34

This silky formula pairs peptides with encapsulated vitamin C to target fine lines and wrinkles. It’s gentle enough for daily use and has been shown to visibly smooth skin in just eight weeks during clinical trials.

Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream, $73

This rich, fragrance-free cream by Canadian brand Skinfix is ideal if you're looking to tackle redness and dry spots. It's formulated with hyaluronic acid, lipids, glycerin and peptides to restore moisture and boost collagen.

We love the refillable jar, which saves on plastic and allows you to save a few dollars with each re-up.

The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum, $40

Previously known as Buffet + Copper Peptides 1%, this water-like serum is formulated with hyaluronic acid and five powerful peptides. It works to restore elasticity, firmness and smoothness.

Olay Regenerist Collagen Peptide 24Max Moisturizer, $57

Suitable to use morning and night, this revamped formula contains twice the amount of peptides as the original Olay Regenerist Collagen Peptide 24. It also boasts 24 hours of deep hydration.

Marcelle Vitamin C + Peptide Brightening & Smoothing Eye Care Cream, $42

Thanks to a blend of antioxidant-rich vitamin C and collagen-boosting peptides, this eye cream de-puffs, boosts radiance and smooths fine lines. Use in the morning, and follow up with sunscreen.

Biossance Squalane + Hyaluronic Acid Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum, $92

A vibrant shade of blue out of the bottle, this lightweight serum contains hyaluronic acid, squalane and copper peptides to boost collagen, hydrate and firm. Copper peptides are naturally found in the body and linked to skin repair. Here, they help plump up skin. Clinical trials show that results are visible in as little as one week.

OleHenriksen Strength Trainer Peptide Boost Moisturizer, $71

Made to strengthen the skin barrier while boosting elasticity, this product contains peptides, amino acids, ceramides and collagen. The texture is rich and cushiony, but still lightweight enough for warmer weather.

Neostrata Firming Anti-Wrinkle Cream, $46

Peptides minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while glycerin and vitamin E provide additional moisture. The formula contains glycolic acid for light exfoliation, leaving skin positively glowing.

Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Cream, $152

You've probably heard that you should moisturize the delicate skin of your neck, but it can be hard to find a cream that's gentle enough to do so. This night cream is formulated specifically for both face and neck. It contains a gentle collagen-boosting tri-peptide complex that works while you sleep so you wake up with smooth, supple and glowing skin.

This creamy formula from Quebec-based brand Jouviance packs the dual power of a cream and a serum in one sleek bottle. The brand's iconic peptide-infused 3-in-1 Anti-Aging Cream melts into a ceramide-rich serum to create a silky texture that easily absorbs into skin.