Everything You Need To Know About Bakuchiol

Retinol is a mainstay in many bathroom cabinets and for good reason—the vitamin A derivative is an anti-aging holy grail that helps kick-start collagen production, smooth wrinkles and tackle hyperpigmentation. But, for all of the amazing results it promises, retinol also comes with a slew of unwanted side effects—especially for sensitive skin types—and it can leave skin red, peeling and irritated.

For people who can't handle the powerhouse ingredient that is retinol, bakuchiol might be a good alternative. Early clinical studies show that bakuchiol (pronounced buh-koo-chee-all), a plant-derived ingredient, boasts similar anti-aging properties as retinol, without the irritation.

Is bakuchiol skincare worth the hype? We asked experts to share all there is to know about this alternative to retinol, including the benefits of using it and how to incorporate it into your skincare routine.

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a plant-based ingredient that comes from the seeds and leaves of the babchi tree. While it's relatively new to the North American beauty market, bakuchiol has been used in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese skincare remedies for centuries.

According to cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Monica Li, based on early studies, bakuchiol appears to have similar benefits to retinol—without the potential side effects.

What are the benefits of bakuchiol in skincare?

"It stimulates skin cell turnover, resulting in brighter skin, as well as improving texture, reducing fine lines and hyperpigmentation," says Dr. Benjamin Barankin, a Toronto-based board-certified dermatologist and medical director at the Toronto Dermatology Centre. Barankin also adds that there can be some improvement in skin firmness and elasticity.

Why is bakuchiol so buzzy at the moment?

Early studies also show that most skin tolerates bakuchiol better than retinol, which makes it safer for sensitive skin types and those with rosacea or dermatitis.

However, it should be noted that bakuchiol does not yet have the same scientific backing and data as retinol.

What skin types is bakuchiol suitable for?

"Given the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties it has shown in early studies, bakuchiol may be used on a spectrum of skin types," says Li. Because it's gentler, those who can't tolerate retinol may benefit most from using it.

It should be noted that, like retinol, bakuchiol is best used on mature skin as younger users may not reap the full benefits of the collagen-boosting ingredient.

How and when should you use bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol can be used morning or night, and it can be found in an array of products, from serums and moisturizers to face masks.

While bakuchiol is fairly gentle, it's still best to use caution when testing a new ingredient. "It's reasonable—especially if you have sensitive skin or dry or eczema-prone skin—to begin with using it three nights per week," says Barankin. If you don't experience irritation after a few weeks, you can start using bakuchiol daily.

Li suggests doing a spot test, either on your wrist or behind your ears, for a week before applying it all over your face in order to determine tolerability.

Can you mix bakuchiol with other active skincare ingredients?

Early data shows that the ingredient doesn't interact with other actives, so it bakuchiol products can be layered.

"There are also skincare products commercially available that have integrated bakuchiol and combined it with other ingredients aimed at improving skin texture, wrinkles and pigmentation," says Li. "Some of these ingredients include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acid), and ascorbic acid (vitamin C)."

As always, the safest course of action when using new skincare ingredients is to patch test every step of the way and take it slow.

The best bakuchiol skincare products to shop in 2024

Burt's Bees Renewal Moisturizing Cream, $28

Formulated with bakuchiol and vitamin E, this cream targets signs of aging, such as fine line and wrinkles and uneven skin tone. The rich texture helps provide a boost of hydration to dehydrated skin.

The INKEY List Bakuchiol Moisturizer, $20

This pared-back cocktail of bakuchiol and squalane targets fine lines, skin texture and dark spots without irritation. The short ingredient list makes it perfect for sensitive skin types.

Sephora Collection Targeted Anti-Aging Bakuchiol Serum, $28

Fans of this milky serum praise its efficacy and love the fact that it doesn't pill under makeup. We love the fact that it's fragrance-free and suitable for all skin types.

Paula's Choice 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment, $89

From smoothing rough skin texture to boosting skin firmness to helping reduce the appearance of fine lines, this treatment does it all. It's formulated with a powerful cocktail of bakuchiol, retinol, vitamin C and peptides that's gentle enough for most skin types.

Retinol increases sun sensitivity, so use at night and wear your favourite sunscreen daily.

Herbivore Moon Fruit 1% Bakuchiol + Peptides Retinol Alternative Serum, $84

One percent bakuchiol is paired with collagen-boosting peptides in this creamy serum. The product is easily absorbed into skin, providing smoothing and brightening benefits, as well as hydration.

OleHenriksen Wrinkle Blur Bakuchiol Eye Gel Crème, $71

This cream contains bakuchiol as well as a blend of peptides, proteins and orchid stem cells to target fine lines and dark circles around the delicate eye area.

Bondi Sands Fountain of Youth Restoring Bakuchiol Serum, $22

Best known for its self-tanners, Aussie brand Bondi Sands also offers affordable skincare. This lightweight bakuchiol serum is formulated with rosella extract for built-in exfoliation.