Everything You Need To Know About Cica

You've likely seen cica pop up in a slew of beauty products over the past couple of years, from masks to serums to moisturizers. Centella asiatica—or cica, for short—is a perennial plant native to the wetlands of Asia that has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries.

Cica skincare is renowned for its soothing and healing properties. A staple in K-beauty products—and increasingly seen on the mass market—cica has been touted as a miracle ingredient that's gentle enough for even the most sensitive and reactive skin types.

Wondering what cica can do for your skin? We asked two experts to decode the buzzy ingredient.

What is cica in skincare?

Also known as gotu kola, Indian pennywort and tiger grass, cica—pronounced “see-ca”—has long been used for medical purposes. “In Asia, it has been used for thousands of years,” says Dr. Meghan O’Brien, a global consulting dermatologist for Kiehl’s, noting that its most common uses have been for wound and burn healing, prevention and treatment of hypertrophic (raised) scars and inflammatory conditions of the skin. And it's not just humans who enjoy the benefits of cica: tigers are known to rub their wounds against the plant, hence its “tiger grass” nickname.

More recently, the botanical extract has played a starring role in a wide array of popular Korean skincare products, including Dr. Jart's bestselling Cicapair line. Primarily sought after for its soothing and hydrating benefits, cica also boasts antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which contributes to its popularity, says Vancouver-based dermatologist Dr. Frances Jang.

Cica has a long laundry list of benefits. Aside from calming inflammation and strengthening the skin barrier (the outermost layer, which regulates hydration levels and protects against external stressors, like pollution), one of its benefits is that it helps increase the production of collagen in the skin, which naturally decreases with age, says O’Brien.

Its anti-inflammatory properties make it ideal for treating eczema and psoriasis flare-ups. O’Brien also points out that a growing body of research suggests that cica has numerous other benefits, including helping balance oily and acne-prone skin without clogging pores.

Is cica safe for all skin types?

Yes! Along with hyaluronic acid, cica is often recommended by experts for those who can't tolerate harsher actives. “It's for everyone, even those with the most sensitive skin,” says Jang.

Cica optimizes moisture levels in the skin, making it more resilient to irritants and environmental aggressors, like pollution, allergens and irritants. While that makes it particularly suitable for dry and sensitive types, it's something everyone can benefit from.

How can I incorporate cica into my skincare routine?

“I recommend using it morning and night,” says O’Brien. With cica taking over beauty aisles and counters, there are plenty of products to choose from. Jang recommends looking for something that contains at least five percent of the ingredient as that concentration has been proven to enhance skin's moisture levels.

While Jang and O’Brien agree that cica can be used in anything from cleansers to serums and masks, both dermatologists recommend opting for a rich, balm-like moisturizer to make the most of the ingredient’s benefits.

Centella asiatica is a great addition to any winter skincare routine to soothe irritation and dryness. But thanks to its collagen-boosting properties, it's useful to keep it on deck throughout the year, not just during the colder months.

On labels, look for the words cica, centella asiatica, gotu kola, tiger grass or madecassoside (an active compound of the plant extract).

Is cica safe to use with other active ingredients?

Cica plays well with most active ingredients, particularly those that tend to cause irritation in the skin, like retinol and chemical exfoliants such as BHAs and AHAs. “Cica's soothing properties can improve the tolerability of these potentially irritating skincare ingredients,” explains O'Brien.

The best cica skincare products to shop in 2024

Three Ships Restore Ceramides + Gotu Kola Barrier Repair Cream, $50

Formulated with ceramides and cica to repair the skin's moisture barrier and increase its resilience, this rich cream by Canadian brand Three Ships has a cushiony texture that instantly soothes irritation. The pump packaging dispenses product so you don't have to put your fingers in the jar.

Grace & Stella Illuminating Eye Masks, $15 for 24 pairs

Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and centella asiatica are the star ingredients in these individually wrapped under-eye patches, which were created to brighten and reduce puffiness. Wondering if they really work? They have over 16,000 5-star reviews on Amazon.

Pro tip: Store them in the fridge to boost their soothing and de-puffing properties.

Laneige Cica Sleeping Mask, $46

Made with fermented forest yeast extract—an ingredient that mimics the healing properties of cica—this overnight face mask hydrates and strengthens skin. It has a cooling gel-cream consistency that soothes skin without feeling greasy or heavy.

Dermalogica Stabilizing Repair Cream, $89

Perfect for calming sensitive skin when it's irritated, this ceramide- and cica-rich cream cocoons the skin in hydration. It also contains boerhavia diffusa root, an ingredient that reduces the appearance of redness. This cream's texture is rich and balm-like, without being heavy or greasy. It also wears well under makeup, especially if you have extra-dry skin.

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5, $26

If your skin is in recovery mode from a recent flare-up or treatment, this soothing balm is a must. Boasting 48 hours of hydration, it absorbs quickly and provides a soothing protective barrier.

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Color Correcting Treatment SPF 30, $73

This green-tinted, cica-infused treatment can be worn alone or under makeup to cover up redness. The texture is thick, and small amount goes a long way. The trick here is to warm it up between your fingers and lightly press the product into the skin.

Innisfree Retinol Cica Focusing Patches, $33 for 18 patches

Combining cica to soothe skin with retinol and salicylic acid to improve texture, these patches feature dissolving microneedles to quickly reduce the appearance of spots.

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Intensive Soothing Repair Serum, $73

Sensitive skin types, rejoice! This potent serum contains a blend of reparative cica and allantoin to soothe skin on the spot. We love that the formula is fragrance-free.