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If pesky patches of rough, bumpy skin are getting in the way of your summer prep, you may be dealing with keratosis pilaris. Often called “chicken skin” due to its goosebump-like appearance, the condition affects around 40 percent of the population. Though completely harmless, it’s notoriously stubborn and can put a serious damper on tank-top season.
The good news? Keratosis pilaris is easily managed with a simple bodycare routine. We asked two dermatologists for their top tips on how to recognize and treat the annoying little bumps so you can start summer with your smoothest skin yet.
Keratosis pilaris, or KP for short, is characterized by tiny bumps that are most commonly found on the sides of the upper arms, thighs or cheeks that make skin feel textured and rough to the touch. “The bumps are caused by dead skin cells and keratin build-up that block hair follicles,” explains Dr. Katie Beleznay, a dermatologist in Vancouver.
All skin types and tones can experience keratosis pilaris. The raised bumps can range in appearance from white, pink or red on light skin to deep brown or black on dark skin, says Dr. Annie Liu, a dermatologist in Toronto and the founder of DermCafé, an online service that connects people with dermatologists. The skin can often be red and blotchy around the affected areas. While KP can look like a rash, it’s not itchy, nor is it dangerous or contagious. But that doesn't make it any less distressing, says Liu. “It’s prominent in areas that are visible, and it can really affect someone’s self-esteem and make them self-conscious.”
Unlike milia—a condition that causes singular white head-like bumps of keratin build-up under the surface of the skin, often around the eyes, nose, cheeks and forehead—keratosis pilaris develops in clusters or patches, which is a surefire way to tell the two apart.
The factors that cause KP are not fully understood, but there’s a strong genetic component, which means there’s a higher chance you might develop it if it runs in your family. It’s also believed to be more common in people who suffer from eczema and ichthyosis vulgaris (a condition that causes dry, scaly skin), notes Belenay.
Keratosis pilaris is often thought of as a summer condition because that’s when we tend to notice it the most, but the biggest environmental trigger is actually winter, thanks to the lower humidity and drying effects of cold weather.
Keratosis pilaris is a chronic and recurrent condition, meaning that there’s no permanent cure for it. It can sometimes get better with age, but a good bodycare line-up is the best way to keep it under control.
“It can be improved with consistent skincare that includes gentle cleansing, mild exfoliation and regular moisturization,” says Beleznay. Both she and Liu recommend pairing exfoliating ingredients such as urea, lactic acid, glycolic acid and salicylic acid with barrier-boosting ingredients like ceramides.
Contrary to popular belief, you can’t scrub away keratosis pilaris. “The most important thing is to be kind and gentle to your skin,” notes Liu. “Harsh scrubs, loofahs, dry brushes and scratching the area are likely to irritate it and make keratosis pilaris worse, preventing it from fading or healing—it can even lead to eczema or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.” In the same vein, Liu urges against at-home remedies like vinegar or lemon juice; instead stick to tried-and-true dermatologist-approved ingredients.
Liu recommends using a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer with built-in exfoliating acids twice a day. “In less than a month, you should start to see notable results,” she says, adding that consistency is key. “It won't get worse if you stop, but it will slowly go back to the way it was before it was treated.” She suggests making gentle exfoliation part of your daily routine, like brushing your teeth or showering. “I like to think of skin health like fitness,” she says. “Once you stop working out, there’s no lasting effect—you have to keep at it.”
In most cases, a solid at-home routine is enough to get rid of keratosis pilaris. But if topical products aren’t smoothing things over or if discolouration persists, you might want to consider in-office treatments with a dermatologist, like chemical peels for deep exfoliation or laser treatments to reduce redness and inflammation.
This fragrance-free smoothing lotion by Canadian brand Reversa contains 10 percent glycolic acid and vitamin E to smooth and hydrate at the same time.
Gentle enough for face and body, this foaming gel cleanser contains salicylic acid to exfoliate, niacinamide to brighten hyperpigmentation and the brand's signature ceramides to replenish and strengthen the skin barrier.
If you have sensitive skin, Canadian brand Skinfix should be on your radar. This smoothing body treatment was formulated specifically for keratosis pilaris and psoriasis, a skin condition that causes itchy, flaky patches of skin. It contains a blend of glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids that's powerful yet gentle enough for daily use.
Salicylic acid, lactic acid and urea make quick work of bumpy patches of skin in this luxuriously rich cream. The silky finish makes it perfect to use from head to toe.
If a body scrub is part of your routine, opt for one that's packed with exfoliating acids rather than harsh particles. Created specifically for KP-prone skin, this one takes care of bumps and textured skin with a mix of buffing pumice beads and a cocktail of glycolic and lactic acids.
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Andréanne Dion is the senior editor, style, beauty and travel at Chatelaine. She is also a contributing editor at FASHION and Hello! Canada.