What You Need To Know About Lactic Acid For Skin
Stronger ingredients, higher concentrations, zappier lasers, newer injectables—skincare can sometimes feel like a big game of one-upmanship. But in the constant chase for more, it’s easy to overdo it and leave your complexion irritated.
That’s where tried-and-true lactic acid comes in. This dermatologist-approved old faithful offers a skin glow-up sans blow-up. Here, we deep-dive into the benefits of lactic acid for skin, how to work it into your routine and the best products to try.
What Is Lactic Acid?
Its name offers a major hint: lactic acid is an acid that comes from dairy products. It’s part of the reason milk baths and yogurt masks were once popular, though the ingredient is mostly made in labs nowadays. (And in case you’re wondering, no, the lactic acid skincare ingredient is not the same as that burning feeling you get in your legs after an intense workout.)
It belongs to the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family, which is a group of skin exfoliants that are water-soluble and do their work on the skin’s surface, unlike beta-hydroxy acids—BHAs—which that are oil-soluble acne fighters, meaning they’re able to penetrate deep into pores.
“I like AHAs because they’re generally accepted by all skin tones—lighter and deeper—and they’re pregnancy- and breastfeeding-safe,” says Dr. Renée Beach, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Toronto’s DermAtelier on Avenue. (Avoiding BHAs during pregnancy and breastfeeding is recommended out of an abundance of caution.) Another perk of lactic acid? “It’s affordable,” adds Beach. “When you see it in products, although it’s a hero ingredient, it doesn’t tend to jack up the price.”
What Are The Benefits Of Lactic Acid For Skin?
“Lactic acid’s main claim to fame is refining the stratum corneum, that outer layer of your skin,” Beach says. It does this by helping your skin ditch dead cells that, when left to linger, can cause your complexion to look dull and feel uneven.
“With consistent lactic-acid use most nights a week—and protection from sun damage and other environmental assaults—one would expect to feel smoother skin, decreased fine lines and a more even complexion in regard to tone,” says Beach.
You can score these benefits on both your face and body. “Treating keratosis pilaris—they call it ‘chicken skin’—is probably one of lactic acid’s most common uses,” says Beach. “It can be used on the area to gently buff the outer layer of skin so it’s smoother.”
Lactic acid also helps skin keep itself hydrated, which is part of the reason it’s one of the gentler acids. It has a larger molecule compared to others, meaning it doesn’t sink super deep into skin and also helps keep irritation at bay. This makes it a trusty exfoliating option for sensitive skin.
“In the game of actives, I’m not worried when somebody tells me, ‘Oh yeah, and I’m using this lactic acid,’ whereas a lot of the other ingredients on the market would cause me pause, either because they’re more likely to be irritable, they won’t play as nicely with things I’m going to prescribe, or they’re significantly more expensive,” says Beach.
How Can I Use Lactic Acid In My Skincare Routine?
When picking a lactic acid product, look for concentrations of two to six percent for the face, and even higher for body, says Beach. Oftentimes, you’ll see lactic combined with other acids for a multi-pronged approach, which could mean more or less of any one exfoliator.
If you’re just getting started with lactic acid, Dr. Beach recommends using it in a face wash about four times a week. “It’s not something you need every day, particularly in winter,” she says. If sensitivity isn’t a major concern, you can try a serum or moisturizer with the acid—potentially daily if your skin tolerates it.
Though it can be used morning or night, saving lactic acid for bedtime lets it work while your body is in repair mode. A major tip for avoiding irritation: “I wouldn’t use it as a precursor to another active ingredient,” says Beach. For this reason, she always recommends alternating rather than layering. For example, she suggests rotating between retinol nights and AHA nights if you want to tap into different actives. And though lactic acid is one of the gentler acids, Beach still recommends keeping it away from the delicate skin around your eyes, neck and in the corners of your mouth.
For the heaviest hit of lactic acid, you can head to a skin clinic for an AHA peel. The potential for irritation increases alongside the concentration, but an expert can help you determine whether you’d benefit from a series of texture-tackling treatments.
Best Lactic Acid Skincare To Shop In 2024
CeraVe Skin Renewing Nightly Exfoliating Treatment, $28
This lightweight lotion sloughs away dead skin cells while you sleep with a combo of lactic and glycolic acids, totalling a five-percent concentration of AHAs. Like all of this derm-backed brand’s lineup, the formula also contains three types of ceramides—a.k.a. fatty molecules—to keep your skin barrier strong (read: glowing and irritation-free).
Bioré Hydrate & Glow Toner, $10
Toner is a great option if you want to introduce lactic acid into your routine without parting from your fave gentle cleanser or moisturizer. And unlike the astringent formulas of the past, today’s toners pack exfoliating and hydrating ingredients. This one pairs lactic acid with nourishing coconut water and prebiotics.
Avène Cleanance Women Corrective Serum, $38
If you’re looking to minimize visible pores, this serum can do just that without harsh ingredients that may send sensitive skin into a spiral. Lentil seed extract helps slow down oil production and strengthen pore walls for a tightening effect, while lactic and glycolic acids smooth out texture.
Dermalogica Skin Resurfacing Cleanser, $69
A face wash offers an easy entry into exfoliation for acid newbies and sensitive types (whereas a leave-on product increases the exposure time and chances for irritation). Work this cleanser into your skin for about 30 seconds so that its lactic acid can mingle with dead skin cells, then rinse it all away for smoother, glowing skin.
Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant, $53
If you’ve got really sensitive skin but want to go a little harder with exfoliation, this leave-on liquid marries two-percent lactic acid with its even gentler AHA counterpart, mandelic acid. Bonus: it’s also great for tackling dark spots (including for deep skin tones), so both your tone and texture bases are covered.
Uriage Hyséac New Skin Serum, $30
Designed for oily and acne-prone skin, this fast-absorbing gel has zinc to cut shine, a trio of AHAs (lactic, glycolic and malic) to smooth texture, lentil seed extract to refine pores and the brand’s signature thermal water to help your skin keep its cool through it all.
Garnier AHA + BHA Pore-Purifying Charcoal Serum, $15
Don’t let the colour of this product scare you—it comes from the formula’s mattifying charcoal but won’t leave any tint behind after you massage it into your skin. The serum is designed to address breakouts with salicylic acid and niacinamide, while its lactic acid helps refine texture at the same time.
Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum, $110
With a whopping 10 percent lactic acid, this lightweight serum eats away at the bonds that keep dead skin cells from flaking away faster. To balance out the high concentration—and help you score firm, glowy skin—a cocktail of 11 peptides helps skin hang onto moisture.
Body Proud Smooth Talk Exfoliating Body Serum, $15
Whether your legs feel a little dry or your arms are dotted with keratosis pilaris, this body serum is designed to deliver smoother skin via lactic acid and niacinamide. You can apply it to a targeted area or spread it over your whole body—with the perk of caffeine for circulation and a mood-boosting green tea scent.
DRMTLGY Exfoliating Body Lotion, $43
Keep this lotion handy for post-shower moisturizing—especially if you’re prone to flaky or bumpy skin on your body. It packs 12-percent lactic acid to help shed dead skin, plus peptides and cactus extract for hydration. We especially love it on rough elbows in the winter.
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