Everything You Need To Know About Milia

Let’s play a game. What looks like a whitehead, feels like a whitehead, must be a whitehead—but doesn’t go away, can’t be popped or squeezed out and is therefore much more frustrating than a whitehead? If you guessed milia, you’ve hit the nail on the (not white) head.

We spoke to a dermatologist to learn everything there is to know about those tiny white bumps that pop up out of nowhere and set up camp on our faces, including how to treat milia.

So, what exactly are milia?

A milium cyst—called milia if there are multiple (which is common as they often come in groups)—is a tiny, painless white bump that appears on the face.

Milia are “common and can appear in people of all ages, regardless of skin type,” explains Dr. Harold Lancer, a Beverly Hills-based celebrity dermatologist who has worked with a long list of A-listers, including Margot Robbie and Jennifer Lopez. “They frequently show up around the eyes, nose, cheeks and forehead.” Less frequently, they can be found on other body parts, like the torso.

What causes milia?

When keratin—a protein that is found in skin, hair and nail cells—gets trapped beneath the surface of the skin, it results in milia. The little white bumps can be caused by many things, from clogged pores to aging (because the skin loses its ability to exfoliate itself over time) to improper use of exfoliating treatments, which “leads to keratin getting stuck beneath the skin’s surface,” explains Dr. Lancer.

You'll find milia most often around the eye area, which doesn’t contain oil glands and can be quite dry. Products may not be absorbed correctly, leading to build-up and clogged pores.

Do skincare products cause milia?

Yes, they can! Switching up your skincare routine can help in preventing milia. “Often, milia appear when pores get clogged from certain topical creams or medications, so oil-free products and thinner, lighter moisturizers and eye creams are generally recommended to individuals who tend to have them," explains Dr. Lancer.

Are certain skin types more prone to milia?

People with skin damage from excessive sun exposure are more prone to them, says Dr. Lancer.

Certain skin conditions, such as rosacea, can also have an impact. Not only can rosacea cause dry and flaking skin, which can lead to clogged pores, but since many people with rosacea or ultra-sensitive skin types tend to avoid potentially irritating exfoliating products, they may have an extra build-up of dead skin cells and sebum, contributing to the formation of milia.

How are milia diagnosed?

Diagnosis is usually very simple and is done via examination by a dermatologist, based on the appearance of the cysts. Very rarely is a biopsy needed to diagnose milia.

How can milia be treated?

Usually milia will go away on their own. And while treatment is certainly not required (remember: they’re common and harmless), if the cysts are particularly large and are bothering you, you can visit your dermatologist to have them removed. (Don't try to remove milia at home by squeezing them, milia can't be popped like a pimple.)

Milia removal treatment is done “either with the use of a laser or scalpel,” says Dr. Lancer. Don’t worry: This is not as painful as it sounds. The “scalpel” is more like a tiny needle, and the pain is on par with blackhead extraction. You can also request a local anesthetic. Downtime is minimal, but as with any treatment, it depends largely on your skin type. At most, you may experience some redness around the removal area for a few days.

Can topical skincare products be used to treat milia?

If you want to try an at-home approach to treating milia first, exfoliating ingredients, such as topical retinoids and chemical peels (like lactic acid and glycolic acid), have been shown to help. These ingredients speed up your skin cell turnover rate, shedding the top layer of dead skin cells at a faster rate than usual, revealing healthy new skin cells underneath.

The best products to shop to get rid of milia in 2024

CeraVe Salicylic Acid Cleanser, $22

This oil-free cleanser is formulated with salicylic acid to gently exfoliate skin as it cleanses. Bonus: It's also budget-friendly and recommended by dermatologists.

Garnier SkinActive All-in-1 Micellar Gentle Peeling Water, $10

This makeup remover contains glycolic acid and one percent polyhydroxy acid to exfoliate. It's gentle enough to use daily, even on sensitive skin.

Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment, $89

Retinol is paired with brightening vitamin C and firming peptides in this multi-tasking treatment that promotes skin-cell turnover for smooth, even skin.

Thayers 2% AHA Toner, $19

Formulated with two percent glycolic and lactic acids, this witch hazel toner is alcohol- and fragrance-free to clear out pores without irritating or drying out skin.

RoC Retinol Correxion Line-Smoothing Eye Cream, $26

A retinol eye cream can help get rid of pesky bumps around that delicate area, plus it helps smooth out lines. This one can be used daily.

The Inkey List Retinol Serum, $20

Retinol doesn't have to be expensive to yield great results. This serum helps exfoliate away dead cells and prevent keratin from getting trapped under the skin. It's formulated with squalane to hydrate and soothe irritated skin.

REN Skincare Glycol Lactic Radiance Renewal Mask, $78

Made with fruit-derived glycolic and lactic acids, this AHAs-infused mask polishes skin and clears out clogged pores.

SkinCeuticals Glycolic Brightening Renew Overnight, $112

This blend of 4 percent glycolic acid, soothing sunflower seed oil and jojoba oil will stimulate exfoliation by sloughing away dead cells that are causing keratin build-up underneath your skin.