
The Okanagan Valley has weathered a lot over the past two years. In 2023, wildfires saw residents evacuated and travellers sent home, while an extended cold snap wiped out entire crops of grape varietals in early 2024, a devastating blow to the winemaking region. But the week I spent there earlier this spring, travelling from Kelowna to Penticton to Osoyoos and back, made it apparent how optimistic and vibrant the region remains—and how ready they are to welcome visitors back to the valley. Every beach boardwalk and restaurant patio was buzzing with couples, kids and friend groups into the well-lit evenings, with the odd bachelorette party or two.
I loved my short stay at Spirit Ridge in Osooyos: Nestled at the base of Anarchist Mountain, the hotel has rooms that feature gorgeous views of either golden mountain ranges to the east or the lake to the west. The suite-style rooms are equipped with en-suite kitchens and laundry facilities, which are ideal for group trips. A visit to the neighbouring Nk’Mip Desert Cultural Centre to learn more about the Okanagan desert and the history and culture of the Sylix Okanagan Nation is a must: it features gently walkable mountain trails and a rattlesnake research program. Next time, I’m keen to try one of the retro motels along Penticton’s lakeside boardwalk: The Bowmont, with its crystal blue outdoor pool and midcentury style, is now on my must-stay list.
Kelowna International Airport is the easiest entry point. If you’re arriving from Calgary Vancouver, WestJet also flies into Penticton’s regional airport. (But if you’re that close, also consider driving; it’s a four- and eight-hour ride from either city, respectively.)
Wine country and outdoor activities are two of the valley’s biggest pleasures, making late spring through mid-fall the ideal seasons to visit.
The Okanagan Valley is ideal for a road trip; unless you plan on staying in just one of its cities, renting a car is a must.
Sunscreen, activewear—and a few wine sleeves if you plan on bringing a couple of your favourite vintages home.

Fun fact: Kelowna was recently invited to apply for UNESCO’s City of Gastronomy certification for the high quality of its cuisine and the fact that it’s largely powered by ultra-local producers. You’ll see this influence in what wineries offer along with their tastings, such as the modernist, small-plate five-course dinner at Mission Hill Family Estate (from $195 pp) or the casual and tasty tapas served at Liquidity ($8-35) on a patio with the most gorgeous view of rolling vineyard hills and towering McIntyre Bluff. I personally loved the cooking at CedarCreek winery’s Home Block, directed by River Café alumnus Neil Taylor.
Some of the Okanagan’s culinary boom is being driven by chefs and business owners who grew up or once worked in the region, left and then returned. Their passion for upping the local culinary ante is evident, whether it’s Michael and Ayse Barluk opening Turkish restaurant Elma in Penticton, or duo Christopher Royal and Michael Ziff re-opening the historic Naramata Inn in the small town’s namesake after the century-old establishment had been slated to close, much to the chagrin of locals. Its house restaurant, Bistro Lapin Perdu, offers classic French bistro fare with a few Québécois touches from Ziff’s childhood spent in Montreal.

If this year’s Buy Canadian movement has encouraged you to learn more about Canadian wine, this is an excellent place to start. I was bowled over how much I didn’t know about this region’s 160-year history in winemaking, and was surprised to discover just how little access we have to its vintages in other parts of the country. Here are three wineries worth a pit stop.
Mission Hill Family Estate may have the distinction of producing Canada’s first-ever 100-point wine (the international gold standard of wine-critic rankings), but it doesn’t take a vinophile to appreciate this establishment vineyard’s varied selection, or the gorgeous monastery-style architecture that houses its tasting rooms, restaurant and gift shop.
Embracing what’s called a gravity-flow approach—by planting vines and designing the production process down a hill to move grapes along the process with minimal intervention—Martin’s Lane Winery in Kelowna produces only Pinot Noir and Riesling. Both are truly superb. While its membership club has an extensive waitlist, you can snag a tasting reservation at their swish HQ by emailing them directly.
The Syrahs at Le Vieux Pin in Oliver, B.C., have been turning heads globally since Severine Pinte stepped in as head winemaker in 2010, earning her a rare knighting into France’s Order of Agricultural Merit in 2023.

The Okanagan was established around the same time it started as a wine country, and this shows through in both its local festivals (catch the Osoyoos Cherry Fiesta and Penticton Peach Festival in July and August, respectively) and the vibrant and varied Kelowna and Penticton farmers’ markets.
The lakeside views while biking the Kettle Valley Rail Trail were a highlight. After packing a picnic lunch into our rented bikes from Pedego, we began our 16-km trip from Penticton up a mountain trail once used as a railway and stopped at a cidery on our downhill ride back.
Looking for a small-town beach experience? Naramata, a tiny town of 1,000, has got you: its main strip is populated by a general store, café, bakery, ice cream shop and surf shop, and its public beaches aren’t nearly as busy as some of the neighbouring cities.
Cool Beans: A $13 coffee tasting class at Craft 42 Roasters in Kelowna changed the way I experience coffee—and introduced me to the joy of craft decaffeinated home brew.

Splashy Splurge: Was it the fact that it retails for three times the price if you can find it in Toronto, or that this heady, Old World-style merlot was the single most delicious sip of red wine I tried on this trip? I brought home a $100 of Checkmate’s Black Rook immediately and did not look back.

Spirited Away: Wine-fatigued? A vermouth spritz is a light alternative, and this cherry version by La Petit Abeille, a cidery in Penticton, is an excellent pick.

In Bloom: Tomo Jewelry makes cute engraved necklaces with birth month flowers. I don’t have a June birthday, but could not resist this rose at their Kelowna Farmer’s Market booth.

Chantal Braganza is a writer and editor living in Toronto. She is deputy editor, food at Chatelaine, a cookbook nerd, lover of vintage dish ware, and currently training for yoga teacher certification. Her first book, Story of Your Mother, is out with Strange Light Press.