Everything You Need To Know About LED Light Therapy

Touted as a one-step solution to common skin woes like redness, acne, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, LED light therapy is generating a big buzz in the beauty world. The popular treatment is widely offered at med-spas and easily accessible at home via high-tech gadgets. Celebs like Kourtney Kardashian and Victoria Beckham swear by their glowing masks and the instant results they provide. The only catch? The futuristic-looking devices aren’t cheap, with prices hovering around $650 for many of the most popular brands. So, is splurging on a LED mask of your own worth it?

What is LED light therapy?

LED (short for light-emitting diode) light therapy is a non-invasive treatment that uses varying wavelengths of light to penetrate different layers of the skin. It induces photobiomodulation, meaning that it modifies cell behaviours and speeds up the process of tissue repair. It has been shown to support wound healing, reduce inflammation, boost blood flow and enhance skin’s brightness.

How does LED light therapy work?

There are two main types of LED therapy—blue and red. Blue light targets bacteria and is typically used to treat acne, whereas red light penetrates deeper into the skin to help stimulate collagen. Red light is believed to act on fibroblasts, a type of cell that produces collagen and helps with the formation of connective tissue. “As we age, collagen diminishes. The more we’re able to stimulate the fibroblasts, the better our skin is,” says Jennifer Brodeur, a Quebec-based facialist and founder of skincare brand JB Sävvi. Red light therapy is also used to reduce redness and is believed to promote hair growth by stimulating blood flow to the scalp.

Is LED light therapy safe?

LED light therapy is painless, doesn’t require downtime and is safe for all skin tones and types. However, certain people should proceed with caution. “You should avoid it if you have an autoimmune disease, such as lupus, that can be exacerbated by light,” explains Dr. Jennifer Tran, a dermatologist in Toronto. She also doesn’t recommend it for those with melasma.

If you’re thinking of treating yourself to a LED mask, take a close look at the wavelengths: Brodeur recommends devices with a red-light wavelength of 633 nanometres or a blue-light wavelength of 415 nanometres. She warns that some devices may be ineffective or use the wrong wavelengths, which could produce unwanted heat and UV, potentially resulting in skin damage, such as hyperpigmentation.

How do you use LED light therapy?

Consistency is key. You’ll likely notice results after just one treatment, but Brodeur recommends between four and 12 to reap maximum benefits. In-office sessions can range in price from $75 to hundreds of dollars. If you love the results after a few visits and are looking to maintain them, it may be worth investing in your own LED mask.

At-home devices can be used as often as desired. Treatments should be performed on clean, dry skin as skincare products and makeup can prevent the light from penetrating deep into the skin.

We Tried It: CurrentBody LED Light Therapy Face Mask Series 2, $640

“I’ve been testing this LED mask for a few months, and the fact that I’ve stuck with daily 10-minute sessions for this long is a testament to how much I love it. I have rosacea, and the treatments have helped tone down the redness in my skin significantly—I still have visible patches, but they’re smaller, not as inflamed and easier to cover up with makeup. As a big fan of facials with a LED light therapy component, having my own mask has been a game changer. This one is flexible and molds to the contours of my face, so it’s comfortable to wear and it reaches all the nooks and crannies that would get left out with a hard-shell mask.” —Andréanne Dion, senior style, beauty and travel editor