Illustration, Isie Yang.
For those who grew up with bulbous, never-used decanters in dusty, never-opened cabinets, you might’ve wondered how, if ever, they get used. Contrary to popular belief, decanting is less about exposing a wine to oxygen and more about removing sediment from an older vintage. As it ages, wine naturally will “throw” sediment in the bottle that, while harmless, is unpleasant to drink. Decanters are usually made out of clear glass so that the sediment is clearly visible. Upon carefully opening a bottle, the wine should be slowly poured into the decanter, taking care to not pour the sediment that has settled at the bottom of the bottle.
That said, decanters do also serve the secondary purpose of aeration, which can soften or emphasize the subtle aromas and flavours of a wine. Any wine can be decanted (even white and sparkling wines!) but it will have the most impact in certain aged, aromatic and full-bodied wines, such as German riesling, Spanish tempranillo, California cabernet sauvignon and white and red Burgundy. There’s even a style of Spanish cider (or cidra) that is traditionally poured from a great height, itself a decanting of sorts. In younger wines, some astringent or “greener” aromas can soften after being decanted, while in older vintages, some of the tertiary aromas (non-fruit aromas like earth, wood, leather, tobacco and even blood) that have developed over time can be better expressed. Twenty to 30 minutes will suffice for any wine; there’s no need to leave a wine out all day to “breathe.” Also? Skip the gimmicky wine gadgets that claim to better “aerate” wines. Exposing a wine to oxygen is the same no matter how you do it.
Decanters are also widely used among sommeliers for blind tasting, a practice where wines are served without their bottles and tasters attempt to guess the origin, grape and style of wine. Though the practice is very much niche, it demonstrates how our perception of a wine’s label can influence what we taste. In a restaurant, or even around the dinner table, some might balk at the very mention of Chardonnay—but when poured blind, may think differently. This also means some inexpensive wines can show far better without the expectations attached to a label. In both senses, serving a wine in a decanter can add a welcome touch of ceremony to the experience of enjoying a wine.
Bigger isn’t better when it comes to decanters; in some cases, they can be more novel than useful. Many styles exist, from simple to fabulously ornate, but they all work the same, albeit with varying degrees of showmanship. One thing to note is that the more elaborate the decanter, the harder it is to clean. Opt for a simple one that won’t collect dust. Of course, one doesn’t need an actual decanter to decant at all; a yogurt container, vase and even a run-of-the-mill bucket will work, so long as it’s clean.
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