Are You Washing Your Face Wrong?

Mistake #1: Washing your face too often—or not enough

“Most people benefit from washing their face twice a day: in the morning to remove oil and sweat accumulated in the night, and in the evening to clear away any makeup, sunscreen, pollution and daily build-up,” says Ahluwalia. More often than that, and you risk stripping your skin barrier of its essential natural oils and causing irritation. On the flip side, not washing your face regularly comes with its own set of challenges. “You can start getting clogged pores that can lead to breakouts, it can cause redness, a dull complexion, blackheads and texture,” she explains. “In extreme cases, you can get something called retention hyperkeratosis, which is a build-up of all the skin cells and dirt on the surface layer of the skin.” 

Try… A post-workout spritz instead of a full cleanse. After a light workout where you don’t sweat excessively, Ahluwalia recommends a few spritzes of hypochlorous acid mist. Naturally found in the skin, it kills bacteria and reduces inflammation, without disrupting the skin barrier. 

Tower 28 Daily Rescue Facial Spray, $38

Mistake #2: Not picking the right products for your skin type

You don’t need to spend a lot of money on a cleanser for it to work—what’s important is making sure that it’s suited to your skin type. Cream cleansers packed with gentle, hydrating ingredients are well-suited to sensitive skin, while gel or foaming cleansers—as well as products with breakout-busting actives like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide—work best for oily and acne-prone types. Cleansers with strong actives should be limited to once a day. “I would suggest doing the active cleanser in the morning, and a gentle one at night,” says Ahluwalia.  Those with combination skin might need to switch things up depending on the season or how their skin feels. 

One thing you may not have given much thought about is the pH of your skin and the role it plays in your cleansing routine. The pH of skin is naturally acidic at around 5.5, but the pH of Canadian tap water varies from a neutral 7 to 10.5; if your skin is very sensitive (and even if it’s not), it’s a good idea to use a cleanser that’s as close as possible to the pH of the skin to help maintain its integrity and resilience. 

Try… Keeping it simple. “For a lot of people, that means making sure that their cleanser is free from unnecessary fragrance or any harsh actives that can irritate skin,” says Ahluwali. 

Aestura Atobarrier365 Foaming Cleanser, $29

Mistake #3: Not removing makeup before cleansing

You typically need more than a regular cleanser to take off makeup, particularly if it’s longwear or waterproof. That’s where the much-touted double cleanse comes in. Ahluwalia swears by micellar water, which attracts and traps makeup, sunscreen, oil and dirt, followed by her regular face wash. “If you have sensitive skin, use an oil-based makeup remover to break down the makeup and sunscreen.”

Try… Having a quick fix on hand for nights when you’re too tired for a proper cleanse. Makeup removing wipes get a bad rap as they can be harsh on the skin, but they can do the job in a pinch. (Look for fragrance-free options.) Ahluwalia’s favourite trick is keeping cotton pads and micellar water by her bedside. “It’s not going to strip your skin.”

Garnier SkinActive Micellar Cleansing Water, $24

Mistake #4: Rinsing with water that’s too hot

A splash of very hot water might feel amazing, but it can strip the skin of its natural oils, leaving it prone to irritation and dryness. Pay attention to water temperature, especially if you often wash your face in the shower. 

Try… A lukewarm rinse. There’s no benefit to using cold water, unless you enjoy the invigorating effect. “Estheticians talk about opening and closing the pores with different temperatures of water, but that’s not based on science,” says Ahluwalia. 

Mistake #5: Exfoliating aggressively

There was a time not too long ago when sonic skin-cleansing brushes with harsh bristles were all the rage. Nowadays, wisdom dictates a gentler approach. Scrubbing too hard and overusing physical exfoliants—whether it’s a product that contains scrubbing particles, or a washcloth—can do more harm than good to the skin barrier, particularly around the eyes, where skin is ultra-thin and sensitive. Instead, Ahluwalia recommends working the cleanser into the skin for 30 seconds using just your finger pads.

Try… Incorporating toners or serums with exfoliating ingredients, like alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), into your skincare routine to gently slough off dead skin cells. Start exfoliating one to three times a week, depending on your skin type, and build from there.

Clarins Multi-Active Brightening Glow Serum, $80

Mistake #6: Using a washcloth (especially more than once) 

There are a few reasons to reconsider using a washcloth in your cleansing routine. For one, the texture can be abrasive. A wet washcloth is also the perfect breeding ground for breakout-causing bacteria, which inevitably end up on your freshly cleansed skin when re-used.

Try… Ditching washcloths altogether, or using them just once before tossing in the wash. We love the reusable makeup removing cloths by Canadian brand Lavoh—the set of minis comes with 5 cloths that can easily be washed with the rest of your laundry.

Lavoh Reusable Makeup Remover Cloths, $40 for a set of 5