How To Prevent—And Repair—Hair Damage

Whether it’s the hair ball in your shower drain or the stray strands that seem to leave a trail behind you, it can feel disheartening to spot the signs of hair damage. And while avoiding it altogether is nearly impossible, you can take easy steps to minimize its impact—and even repair those fraying hair fibres. Here, two experts weigh in on how to score your healthiest hair.

What is hair damage?

Think of a strand of hair as tiny twines neatly twisted together to form a rope, says Vancouver-born celebrity hairstylist and Kerasilk brand ambassador Harry Josh. “Over time, the little rope gets worn and torn," he says, "and then the slightest amount of weight or pressure can break it.” The hair might snap off completely, or you may notice split ends, where the tips of your hair form little prongs as they break apart. This damage can cause your hair to frizz and lose its shine.

Related: What I Learned From Losing My Hair

Breakage can happen anywhere along the hair shaft, be it up high near the root, somewhere midway, or down at the bottom. This is different from hair loss or thinning, which have various causes, including conditions like alopecia areata, androgenic alopecia and hormonal issues. All these conditions can cause shedding (keep in mind, a certain amount of shedding is normal), and some strategies for tackling breakage can help with hair loss, too.

What causes hair damage?

Heat styling and chemical processes, like colouring and relaxing, are two common causes of hair damage. But it’s easy to forget that environmental factors, such as sun exposure and a lack of humidity, play a role as well. “If it’s affecting your skin, it’s affecting your hair,” says Josh.

The health of your scalp matters, too. “I find that clients see their hair breakage and don’t realize that if their scalp was in better condition, it wouldn’t be happening,” says Janet Jackson, L’Oréal Paris hair expert and owner of JouJou Hair Studio in Toronto. Another sneaky culprit? Hormonal changes, which can impact your hair, nails and skin.

Related: How To Fight Frizz For Every Hair Type

That’s why you may notice more hair breakage during menopause, when estrogen levels decline. This can contribute to a damage double-whammy, considering that our strands already become a little finer as we age. These more delicate strands (picture a daintier twine rope) can break more easily, making good hair habits even more crucial.

How do you prevent hair damage?

The old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is fitting here. Seeing that hair is primarily made of dead cells, it doesn’t have the ability to heal itself. Your best bet is to try to minimize breakage in the first place.

• Start with your scalp “A lot of people with hair loss and breakage don’t want to wash their hair because they’re terrified that it’s going to come out more,” says Josh. But he notes it's better to keep your scalp "incredibly clean" to foster health hair growth. Along with lathering up, add a scalp serum to nourish your hair follicles and protect against environmental damage.
• Take note of how your hair reacts to different products, tools and techniques “If you start to notice that your hair is coming out a lot after using [a] or doing a certain style, then that’s something you should stay away from,” says Jackson.
• Give your hot tools a day off Always use heat-protection spray or lotion when blow-drying, curling or straightening your hair, says Josh. Even better? Give your hair a break from the hot stuff whenever you can.
• Add hair treatments to your routine “Every two weeks, you should be giving yourself a hair treatment as a preventative measure,” says Jackson, who rotates her clients between hydrating and strengthening formulas.
• Share any concerns with your stylist This will ensure your stylist treats your hair as carefully as possible during any chemical processes; as well, your stylist can also help you come up with a plan to stretch out how long you can go between appointments. “Having that dialogue with your hairdresser is important,” says Josh.
• Switch up your style If your hair is prone to damage, constantly wearing it in the same style can cause breakage in certain areas. “Ponytails can lead to thinning around the hairline,” says Jackson. Similarly, if you’re noticing a row of frizz along your part, try changing it up so that the same spot isn't always getting exposed to heat, tension and/or sunlight.
• Brush gently “Make sure you’re using a good brush with wide bristles,” says Josh. “Nothing too tight or dense that can create tension and pressure.” He recommends a paddle brush or wide-tooth comb. And keep in mind that your hair can break more easily when wet. “Start at the bottom and work your way up."
• Seal your tips Introduce a cuticle filler to your daily routine, says Josh. Available as sprays, creams and serums, these leave-in products help to smooth and protect.
• Reduce friction as you sleep “Try sleeping with a silk pillowcase or satin cap,” says Jackson. “If the air is dry and your hair is constantly rubbing on cotton or something rough, it will break.”

A little patience is key as you adopt these habits. “Similar to growing muscle, you need consistency to see incremental improvements,” says Josh, who notes that you should notice less shedding after about four weeks, with more significant results taking months as the damage grows out and healthier strands grow in.

How do you repair hair damage?

Because your hair isn’t actually living tissue, it can’t heal itself in the way that, say, your skin can. But bond-repair products can help. Available as shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums and more, these formulas help reconnect your hair’s naturally occurring chemical bonds—the ones that break when your hair is damaged. “Bond-repair treatments help you on a long-term basis; it’s not just the aesthetic of making it look better, but actually bonding and repairing inside the hair strand,” says Jackson.

Related: Everything You Need To Know About Colouring Your Hair At Home

If your damage is next-level—“I see clients who literally have a shag cut from breakage,” says Josh—it might be time for a complete reset. “Live in a bun and give your hair four months off from chemicals and hot tools,” he says. You can also consider a major chop to get rid of the damage, and then commit to a routine that will help restore your hair to good health.

Here are some of our favourite products for healthy hair.

Kitsch Satin Pillowcase

If a silk pillowcase isn’t in the budget, try this affordable satin option that one Chatelaine editor swears by.

$24, amazon.ca

Kerasilk Redensifying Scalp Serum

Give your roots a boost with this daily-use serum that promises thicker and fuller strands straight from the follicle.

$58, chatters.ca

Biolage Hydra Source Blow Dry Shaping Lotion

Protect your hair from temps as hot as 450F while also lending some extra moisture via aloe and hyaluronic acid.

$29, amazon.ca

Mela & Kera Balayage Exceptionnel Smooth Ends

Round out your styling routine with this finishing cream, which contains plant extracts and vegan protein to strengthen and smooth split ends.

$46, melaandkera.com

L’Oréal Paris Bond Repair Rescue Pre-Shampoo

The first part of a four-step bond repair system, this pre-shampoo contains 12 percent citric acid to rebuild broken bonds inside hair strands.

$11, shoppersdrugmart.ca

Manta Healthy Hair Brush

This soft silicone brush has spaced-out, flexible bristles to glide gently through hair without any snags.

$42, chapters.indigo.ca

Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask

Quench dry hair with a hydrating five-minute mask loaded with argan oil and glycerin.

$48, sephora.com

Pantene Miracle Rescue Intense Rescue Shots

With an ultra-concentrated blend of vitamin B5, lipids and antioxidants, these ampoules help bring back shine while protecting against future damage.

$7 for 4 x 15 mL ampoules, amazon.ca

Nexxus Unbreakable Care Thickening Conditioner

A cocktail of keratin, microalgae, collagen and biotin helps cut breakage and amp up fullness.

$20, shoppersdrugmart.ca