Chatelaine Kitchen

Ceviche: Signature dishes from four restaurants

Chefs sure love showing off fresh fish. First came sushi and sashimi, then tuna tartare and crudo (the pescatarian answer to carpaccio). Now, as Latin American food gains popularity, ceviche - fish lightly 'cooked' by the acid in citrus juice - is the flavour of the month
By Malcolm Jolley,
De Rodriguez Cuba Restaurant Exterior in Miami Beach De Rodriguez Cuba
Raza Restaurant Interior in Montreal Raza
Edulis Restaurant Interior in Toronto Edulis
Hawksworth Restaurant Interior in Vancouver Hawksworth
ceviche Roberto Caruso

Hawksworth, Vancouver, 801 West Georgia St.


Alessandro Munge designed the four rooms that make up David Hawksworth's temple for gastronomy, where West Coast foodies worship.

The chef: Kristian Eligh is a rising star in his own right, marrying local ingredients with Vancouver's ethnic culinary traditions.

The dish: Yellow Fin Tuna Ceviche. Eligh takes Ocean Wise-approved, sustainable tuna, acidulates with lime and adds crunch with roasted amaranth seeds (an Aztec grain) and pecans.

Edulis, Toronto, 169 Niagara St.

Latin for "edible," Edulis is the brand new ingredient-driven spot run by husband-and-wife Toronto veterans who are back from a stint cooking in Europe and South America.


The chefs: Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth. Caballo draws on his Spanish heritage and recent job in Panama, and he sources from the local Great Lakes.

The dish: Whitefish Ceviche with Culantro. The sweetness of the line-caught fish is elevated by a grassy hit of long-leafed herb related to cilantro.

Raza, Montreal, 114 Laurier Ave. W.

Nestled in the city's ultra-hip Mile End neighbourhood, Raza is a narrow storefront resto that pioneered Nuevo Latino cuisine in Canada.

The chef: Peruvian-born Mario Navarrete Jr. serves an ever-changing tasting menu, but ceviche is always on it.


The dish: New Brunswick Scallops with Lime Juice, Avocado Mousseline and Sweet Potato Purée. Navarrete 'cooks' the scallops simply in lime juice and then softens the bite with avocado and his signature sweet purée.

De Rodriguez Cuba, Miami Beach, 101 Ocean Dr.

South of the border, the "godfather of Nuevo Latino cuisine," as he's known, is behind this art deco Miami Beach hot spot credited with shaping North Americans' fascination with Cuban food. He offers up 15 types of ceviche, including Thai and Latino.

The chef: Douglas Rodriguez

The dish: Mixed Seafood Ceviche. Squid, octopus, conch, mussels and clams mix with lime, grapefruit juice for bitterness, celery for crunch, and tarragon and anise for depth.



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