The iconic Château Frontenac is Quebec City's most famous landmark. (Photo: Getty Images)
With its winding cobblestoned streets, old-timey storefronts and eclectic public art installations, Quebec City is known for its rustic charm. Around every corner, there’s evidence that the city is one of the oldest European settlements in North America, from the 18th-century Notre-Dame-des-Victoires church to the foundations of the Saint-Louis Forts and Châteaux National Historic Site, which can be seen underneath Dufferin Terrace through giant glass observatory cubes. But outside of the castle-like ramparts and historic monuments of Old Quebec, there’s a vibrant modernism that courses through the city.
Planning a weekend away? Here's what's worth adding to your itinerary.
La Vieille Capitale is worth a trip year-round, but there’s something magical about visiting during the winter months. Spend time outdoors at the famed Carnaval de Québec (from February 7 to 16, 2025), or do like the locals and wander without a plan, popping in and out of shops, cafés and restaurants on a whim.
In the heart of the historic centre, Monsieur Jean Hôtel Particulier is ideally located for exploring the city by foot. The rooms, all equipped with kitchenettes, are bright and the beds are comfortable. I loved the whimsical decor—think Alice in Wonderland meets Louis XIV—of luxe striped furnishings, glossy surfaces and touches of gold and blue throughout.
At Chez Rioux & Pettigrew, chef Dominic Jacques’ “L’Expérience” tasting menu puts the spotlight on local seasonal produce. (When I visited in June, the morels and asparagus were fantastic.) Don’t skip Va Bene, where you’ll find hearty antipasto platters and a tiramisu that rivals the best I’ve eaten in Italy. And for quality pub grub, check out Q-de-Sac Resto-Pub in Petit-Champlain, where you can order a big, comforting bowl of French onion soup for just $13.
Climb the steep slopes leading to spectacular panoramic views of the St. Lawrence River, and take your time walking from the Old Port up to Château Frontenac, the city’s most famous landmark, which sits at the top of a cliff. My favourite route starts on Corridor du Littoral, follows rue Dalhousie past Place des Canotiers and weaves through Petit-Champlain. Once at the top, reward your effort with a cocktail at the nearby Brasserie Les Mordus. My drink of choice? An amaretto sour crafted with Distillerie Mariana’s Avril, a Quebec-made liqueur.
The small-but-sumptuous chapel at the Monastère des Ursulines was recently restored and opened to the public for the first time. You don’t need to be religious to appreciate this gem of Nouvelle France architecture: Take in the gilded decor and beautifully preserved carved-wood details that date back to the 1720s, then make your way to the museum for a selection of permanent and rotating exhibits that give context to the nuns’ legacy.
The streets of Old Quebec are lined with indie boutiques. Stroll through quartier Petit-Champlain, the most picturesque of its neighbourhoods. Stop by concept shop Créature Atelier for design-forward housewares, bodycare and accessories (including totes and duffle bags, which will be handy if you need more space in your luggage for souvenirs).
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This leather crossbody from Montreal’s Atelier Hotel Motel ($175) caught my eye at Créature Atelier. It’s perfect to stash your essentials when out exploring.
I stocked up on this delightful roast, which makes a smooth espresso with notes of chocolate and roasted nuts.
In a festive mood? Pick up a tree trimmer—like this Château Frontenac one—at La Boutique de Noël de Québec, which is open year-round.
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