
(Photo: Mark Tanggaard for Visit Copenhagen)
Despite its long and dark winters, Denmark consistently ranks among the world’s happiest countries, and its capital, Copenhagen, recently topped the Institute for Quality of Life’s Happy City Index. In search of a little happiness of my own before the cold set in, I hopped on a plane with a jam-packed itinerary filled with all of my favourite things.
A typical day on my trip started with a leisurely bike ride to the harbour for a bracing swim in one of city’s open-air swimming zones (a beloved local ritual no matter the season), followed by sightseeing, shopping and, of course, eating. The highlight of my visit? Cardamom buns, a Swedish export that’s a mainstay in every crowd-drawing bakery in town, of which there are many.

I stayed at Coco Hotel, a cozy boutique property located in the heart of the hip Vesterbro neighbourhood, within easy walking distance of the city’s main transportation hub. The on-site café’s breakfast buffet—a traditional Danish spread of bread, butter, cheese, jam, soft-boiled eggs and pastries—was the perfect way to fuel up for a day of sightseeing. I loved sipping my morning coffee in the hotel’s courtyard, which turns into a lively hang-out spot in the evenings.

The all-inclusive Copenhagen Card ($122 for 72 hours) is a must for first-time visitors; it gives access to over 80 attractions, as well as free public transportation. First up: Beat the jetlag at one of the city’s many world-class museums—don’t miss the Designmuseum Danmark, where you can deep-dive into the history and impact of Danish design on modern culture. The museum's extensive collection of Danish chairs was a standout, as was the Power of Print exhibition, which looks at stunning textiles from Danish fabric printers.


Break for lunch at La Banchina, an intimate snack and wine bar, complete with its own dock and sauna, in trendy Refshaleøen. I spent the morning swimming, sweating and lounging, before warming up with pumpkin soup and a glass of natural wine from a menu crafted from in-season Danish ingredients. If you’d rather take your thermal circuit indoors, opt for Sofiebadet, a beautifully restored, marble-clad bathhouse from 1909, hidden on a quiet Christianshavn side street.

Tivoli Gardens—a quaint, circa-1843 amusement park that’s said to have inspired author Hans Christian Andersen’s The Nightingale and served as a blueprint for Disneyland—makes for a fun night out. It’s home to Rutschebanen, the oldest operating roller coaster in Europe, but even if you’re not a thrill-seeker, the lush, manicured gardens festooned with fairy lights are the perfect spot for an evening stroll.

From street stalls that sling hot dogs topped with rémoulade, pickles and fried onions to innovative New Nordic cuisine focused on hyper-local ingredients, Copenhagen has a famously thriving food scene. (The Bear even dedicated a whole episode to it.) If a reservation at Noma, the five-time World’s Best Restaurant winner that now operates as a pop-up, was on your bucket list, book a table at Ark. The nine-course, plant-based set menu (from CAD $285) show-cases mushrooms grown at a nearby farm. The team devises new techniques to cut down on food waste with every seasonal menu change, a commitment that earned them a Michelin Green Star.

For a more laid-back vibe and significantly more affordable fare ($13 to $22, depending on the day), try fællesspisning, or communal dining. At Absalon, a community space where dinner is served family-style every night, I shared palak paneer with feta and spinach—one of my favourite meals of the trip—with locals, expats and a group of women on their own girls’ trip.

There’s no shortage of cool brunch spots serving up local favourites like bolle med ost (a sourdough bun topped with butter and cheese) and smørrebrød (an open-faced sandwich on rye bread), but I headed to Apotek 57 in the pretty Nyboder district to sample their most popular dishes: a savoury waffle topped with a bright green herb emulsion and a flaky croissant filled with miso caramel.

One of the best parts of my trip? The croissant-like cardamom bun I had at Hart Bageri is one of the best pastries I’ve ever had: perfectly flaky with a caramelized bottom layer that was to die for.

With plenty of big-name designers and cool-girl brands, like Henrik Vibskov, Cecilie Bahnsen and Ganni, Copenhagen is a bona fide fashion destination. There are countless curated vintage stores peppered around the city, but I especially loved Reseller, where I found an impressive selection of preloved Ganni pieces at good prices, and Von, a concept store across from my hotel that sells a mix of unique vintage clothing and small local brands. Antique and vintage markets—like the Frederiksberg Loppetorv or the popular Veras Market Under Buen—are also great spots to score one-of-a-kind treasures.
A new signature scent

I’ve long been a fan of Danish fashion designer Henrik Vibskov’s use of bold colours, graphic patterns and exaggerated shapes. At his eponymous label’s Copenhagen boutique, I fell in love with Cedar Root Black, a fresh, woody fragrance with notes of leather, jasmine and black pepper.
An iconic hair accessory

Pico is a boutique dedicated almost entirely to hair accessories, which are displayed in glass cases like bedazzled pastries. I left with a few things, including one of the oversized rose-shaped clips that the store is known for.
A chic pair of socks

One of my favourite finds were these fun multi-coloured glitter socks from Danish brand Beck Söndergaard that I came across in a gift shop in Tivoli Gardens. I bought four pairs in different patterns.
A jaunty scarf

I couldn’t resist this jaunty cotton scarf from Mads Nørgaard, which I’m planning to wear tied around my neck to elevate plain white tees and cardigans this winter.
In winter, days are short and cold, which is prime time to embrace the Danish concept of hygge (a feeling of cozy contentment). Summer brings bustling energy to the city. You’ll get the best deals and lowest crowds in fall and winter. When I visited in mid-September, the temperatures were comfortable, hovering between 17C to 22C in the daytime.

The metro and buses are fast and reliable, but the best way to see the city is to take a cue from the locals and ride a bike. Many hotels offer rentals at affordable prices, and short-term, app-based bike-share services, like Lime and Donkey Republic, are also widely available. (Brush up on the city’s cycling rules and etiquette before you hop on.)
Plan to wear a lot of light layers and bring a water-resistant jacket—the weather is unpredictable year-round. If you’re planning on shopping at vintage and antique markets, you’ll want to have Danish kroner on hand.
Andréanne Dion is the senior editor, style, beauty and travel at Chatelaine. She is also a contributing editor at FASHION and Hello! Canada.