I loved strolling through bohemian Barranco—often called Lima’s SoHo—and taking in all the colourful graffiti.
In case you missed it, Lima is having a moment. The South America megacity—a melting pot of cultures and cuisines from West African to Italian to Japanese—is home to the number-one restaurant on this year’s World’s 50 Best list, as well as countless less pricey but no less spectacular spots that serve up everything from classic Peruvian fare to chifa (a Chinese-Peruvian mash-up).
In between meals, visit the stunning Huaca Pucllana, a circa 500 AD adobe and clay multilevel pyramid smack in the middle of the city. Then, hit the waves—Peru is one of the world’s top surfing destinations—and shop for chocolate, coffee and knitwear. And you absolutely cannot leave without enjoying a pisco sour, a puckery Peruvian cocktail of lime juice, egg white, bitters and pisco, a clear spirit made from distilled grape juice. Just don’t plan on getting lots of sun—the city is known as Lima la Gris (the grey city) for its often-overcast weather.
Make sure to wear sneakers as you tour Huaca Pucllana, where the Lima people once held ceremonies and made human sacrifices—the loose gravel trails are easy to navigate but dusty. Afterward, stop for a cocktail on the terrace at the swish Huaca Pucllana Restaurante.
El Cacaotal in Barranco offers chocolate, coffee and wine-tasting classes for groups of four or more. Co-owner Amanda Jo Wildey’s passion for farm-to-bar chocolate is contagious, while her fiancé Felipe Aliaga runs the coffee education program. This is also a great place to stock up on natural wine, artisanal pisco and house-made coffee liqueur.
Feeling adventurous? I signed up for a 1.5-hour beginner’s surfing lesson from Tubos Surf School and I had an absolute blast in the big waves. (Note: Wear your bathing suit to the beach, as there are no change rooms—which I learned the hard way.)
Lima has a restaurant for every taste and budget, from the spectacle dining at Central (where a 13-course tasting menu features foods from 13 altitudes and costs around C$620) to cheap and cheerful Barranco cevicheria El Muelle, where I devoured a combo plate of ceviche and causa (a cold layered dish of mashed potatoes, avocado and seafood) for C$17.
Astrid y Gaston, owned by a pastry chef wife and chef husband of the same names, is the prettiest restaurant I’ve ever dined in. Located in a 17th century hacienda, it’s worth a visit for the massive breadbasket alone. The desserts (including the La Lucúma, named for the South American fruit with sweet potato vibes that’s often used in Peruvian sweets) are delicious and highly Instagrammable.
But my favourite meal of the trip was one I helped make. The Urban Kitchen offers group cooking lessons featuring Peruvian classics. My group made ceviche and lomo saltado—a beef stir-fry—and both were superb. (Want to make your own ceviche? Our delicious recipe comes together in 15 minutes flat.)
I stayed at the stately Country Club Lima Hotel in residential San Isidro. (Its divine breakfast buffet and strong pisco sours were highlights.) For a return trip, I’d book an Airbnb in Barranco—you can find a two-bedroom apartment for less than C$100 a night.
One cannot leave Peru without llama merch. I bought this sweet mini oil painting at a stall outside the Inka Market. (IMO, the actual market is overrated.)
Alanya Repostería is a chic cafe with a deep pastry case. I took home a slice of Turrón de Doña Pepa, a layer cake made from syrup and shortbread-like cookies.
Take your time digging through the myriad knits at Kop Concept Store—I left with an elegant bell-sleeved sweater that was made by the shop’s owner.
The couple behind Miroshnik make delicious farm-to-bar chocolate—meaning the bars were made at the same farm that grew the cacao. I stocked up at El Cacaotal.
I flew Air Transat, which has direct flights to Lima from Toronto and Montreal. Consider splurging on Club Class for a luxury experience that rivals that of other major airlines.
Summer runs from December to April, with temps hitting 30C; winter lows are a relatively balmy 10C—and you’re also more likely to snag restaurant reservations and hotel deals at this time.
Lima is a sprawling city of 11 million residents. I used Uber to get around; it was affordable and easy to find a driver. If you’re walking, be careful—the traffic is intense.
Don’t leave home without a credit card and some Peruvian soles. (One sol equals about C$0.37.) I brought USD on the advice of some travel sites, but it was rarely accepted.
Want more travel inspo? Check out six Canadian destinations our editors love.
This trip was provided by PROMPERU. All recommendations are the writer’s own.
Maureen Halushak is the editor-in-chief of Chatelaine. Outside of work she's an avid runner, writer, reader and dog walker.