Visual artist Marisa Gallemit came of age in the ’80s, when preppy style was everywhere and a big blazer was de rigueur. She’d borrow oversized button-downs from her dad or alter his dress pants and wear them to school. Now in her 50s, Gallemit is still inspired by the roomy cuts and boxy silhouettes of menswear, albeit with a feminine edge. “There’s something about masculine clothing that feels very protective,” she says. “I’m looking for ease and airflow; I don’t want to be cinched in. But I like to mix it up with softer touches.”
One of her most prized possessions is a vintage brocade coat she bought in New York in the ’90s; here, she pairs it with a Breton top, corduroys and a 3D-knit crossbody bag by Toronto label Hoi Bo.
For Gallemit, choosing an outfit is not just about aesthetics or practicality but also appreciating what makes a piece of clothing special. “It lived a life before I got it,” she says of the coat she’s been wearing and mending for decades.
Here, she shares how her style evolved over the years and how she approaches trends.
I was obsessed with my father's clothes when I was younger. Preppy was in back then, so when he would discard a Lacoste jacket or an oversized shirt, I would wear it to school.
I really found my style in my late 40s—I wasn’t dressing to find a partner, I wasn’t dressing to be seen by men. I just wanted to feel good and cool. What I'm looking for now is ease, so I still get inspiration from menswear. These days, I’m better at mixing it with feminine touches. If I'm wearing a men's shirt, I'll unbutton it a little to show off a necklace, for example. I'm at this age now where I'm not scared to be sexy, but I don't necessarily want to be overtly sexy in a feminine way. I’m trying to find a balance between masculine clothing and giving it a feminine edge.
I'm really loving the volume that's happening in fashion right now; the wide-leg pants and looser tops. I don't want to be cinched in at all, I need airflow. I’ve aIso entered my linen era.
I'm trying not to be a wasteful person. I’ve customized almost every piece of clothing that I have—whether that’s shortening sleeves or hems or elasticating waist—in my attempt to not shop online. I like to keep an eye on what's happening in the fashion world. I’ll go through my current wardrobe and see what I can alter in order to get the same look as a trend I’m interested in.
I'm also obsessed with mending. I have all of these vintage jeans that I just can't stop mending and patching. If I have a couple of things to mend every day, I'm really happy.
Being an artist gives me permission to be a little bit weirder than I would otherwise be, it gives me license to be a little bit off kilter, and I'm grateful for that. I look for special pieces. I look for a good story, a fateful thing that happened that led me to a purchase. I'm also really interested in stuff that people I know have made—the purse that I'm wearing in the photo above is made by Hoi Bo in Toronto. I know Sarah, the designer, and she's a really smart, cool lady. It was a splurge for me, but it was totally worth it. I use it all the time, I love the design and I know the person who made it.
I love the vintage coat from the ’60s I’m wearing in the photo above. I bought it in New York City in the ’90s, and it makes me feel fancy. It’s feminine, but the shape is roomy and feels familiar. I imagine it once belonged to a debutante, and she’d wear it to go out for cocktails. I’ve been wearing it for 30 years, and I’ve really taken care of it by mending it and patching up the lining. I love it so much that it’s going to be in my will.
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