Black-owned beauty businesses have been on a well-applauded rise in recent years. But when it comes to diversity in fashion, Black-led labels, especially in the luxury market, still feel like a rarity—save a few exceptions. Olivier Rousteing has been creative director at Balmain for almost nine years (since he was 25!); in 2018 Virgil Abloh was tapped to run menswear at Louis Vuitton while also running his own label, Off-White. Shayne Oliver started cult label Hood By Air in 2006, went on hiatus in 2017, and recently announced that he’s reinstating the brand after designing for Helmut Lang. Nigerian-born Duro Oluwu has been a London staple since 2004. Carly Cushnie has been in the game a minute, first with womenswear line Cushnie et Ochs, and currently, after splitting with her design partner, as CEO and creative director of the luxury label Cushnie. And, of course, we can't forget Queen Rihanna of house Fenty.
Representation in fashion campaigns and runway shows has also gradually improved thanks to powerful conversations urging labels to hire models of different ages, races, body types and gender identities. But at the same time, every fashion week seems to unleash at least one or two offensive, appropriative designs that feel like a giant step backwards. (Looking at you, Burberry and Comme des Garçons.)
That’s why we’re pledging to put our dollars behind brands with talented creatives of colour at their helm—not just during Black History Month, but all year long.
From homegrown companies on the come up to international superstars, the range is real. Here are 13 fashion brands featuring Black designers who bring fresh perspectives, exquisite taste and ingenuity to the sartorial conversation.
Toronto’s Ashley Alexis McFarlane creates heirloom-worthy jewellery that incorporates inspiration from Africa and the diaspora. Her pieces are handmade with conflict-free metals using traditional techniques. This necklace stack takes the pressure off perfect layering and includes pendants featuring Cleopatra and the Queen of Sheba.
The Queendom Coin Necklace Stack, $249, omiwoods.com.
Ever heard of the “Bushwick Birkin”? The boxy shopper, designed by Telfar Clemens, has been worn by everyone from Solange to Lil Naz X to Sonja Morgan of the Real Housewives franchise. With its accessible price point and debossed logo, the it has become a fashion status symbol among POC, the queer community and creatives, making it a must-have item. The label is rooted in genderless fashion, inclusivity and connection. A champion for diversity and visibility, the Queens-born designer’s tagline, “Not for you—for everyone,” says it all.
Orange Medium Shopper Tote, US$202, shop.telfar.net.
Traditional African wax cloth—with all its power-clashing colours and prints—is the foundation upon which Toronto-based designer Catherine Addai has built her womenswear line. Kaela Kay includes eye-catching dresses, tops and bottoms up to size 22 (custom options are also available), as well as headwraps and collars (perfect for transforming a white tee). The line, which has caught the eyes of Teyonah Parris and Ava DuVernay, is bold and infectious, designed to flatter and incite flattery.
Helen Dress, $326, kaelakay.com.
After studying fashion design at FIT and working under houses like Tory Sport and Tommy Hilfiger, Victor Glemaud founded his own label in 2006. Focusing on elevated, bright staples with a unique edge, the Haitian-born creative’s line is joyful and optimistic. Glemaud credits Selena Gomez for having opened the brand’s global client base when she wore a slick red number from the designer in a Vogue 73 questions video. Glemaud's designs have been worn by Sienna Miller, Justine Skye and Issa Rae, and the stock frequently sells out.
Geometric Turtleneck, $570, shopbop.com.
Cool girl Sami Miro is making buying eco-conscious garments so easy. After leaving the tech world, the San Francisco native turned her passion for vintage into a career. Launched in 2016, Sami Miro is all about repurposing recycled fabrics and previously owned garments into one-of-a-kind looks. The line has been spotted on celebs like Hailey Bieber, Kim Kardashian West and Drake.
Sylvester Skirt, $399, samimirovintage.com.
On a mission to challenge gender fluidity in fashion, this edgy Canadian brand is the brainchild of the all-Black female design team Charlene Akuamoah, Meghan Prosper and Nicole Simmons. The trio, who met in college, began creating accessories and documenting fashion, music and culture on their blog. Over time, broke&living organically diversified into unisex clothing comprised of two distinct vibes: a trend-focused line and a luxury collection.
Jaffe Jofer Waterfall Coat, $375, brokeandliving.com.
Toronto-bred, Brooklyn-based founder Aurora James is a force in footwear, counting Beyoncé, Solange, Meghan Markle and Zendaya amongst her fans. The label’s playful, eclectic pairs are handcrafted in Ethiopia, Kenya, South Africa and Morocco, and the globe-trotting James is committed to using locally-sourced materials and paying artisans a living wage.
Brother Vellies Summer Huarache, US$225, brothervellies.com.
In 2013, Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean caught the eye of Giorgio Armani who encouraged her to show at Fashion Week in Milan. The self-taught designer excels at mixing Creole-inspired prints, colours and motifs with streetwear touches and feminine tailoring. Based in Rome, Jean supports ethical and sustainable fashion, employing artisans in Africa and Haiti to create bright and energetic fabrics and materials. And if you have children (and a bit of cash), Stella Jean Kids is known for making little ones look cooler than their parents.
Stampa Maya Skirt, $470, shopbop.com.
Another Beyoncé-approved designer (who also counts Cardi B, Lady Gaga and the Kardashian-Jenner crew as fans), LaQuan Smith debuted his figure-hugging, eponymous line at age 21 in 2010. Last October, Smith’s sartorial vision became available on a mass-market level worldwide, thanks to his partnership with ASOS. The drop includes pieces for both men and women, as well as plus-size designs. It's currently on sale, so act fast!
Wide Leg Trousers in Leopard Print, $116, asos.com.
The concept of “nude” as a shade with limited range is slowly—finally!—dying out. Ade Hassan, creator of the London-based brand Nubian Skin, was inspired to create a line of hosiery and lingerie that covered the spectrum for women of colour. You’ll find thongs, briefs, bras, slips and other underpinnings, plus hosiery in four shades: Berry, Cinnamon, Caramel and Cafe au Lait. Construction is focused on comfort with seamless edges and breathable microfibre, and there’s also a limited-edition line of classic leather ballet flats and pointy-toe pumps.
Full Slip in Cinnamon, US$75, nubianskin.com.
Canadian-based Nigerian designer Dumebi Iyamah made a splash on Instagram thanks to her next-level swimwear inspired by different African cultures. Along with suits in an array of cuts, colours and prints, the designer creates stunning ready-to-wear, evening and bridal wear that incorporates African-inspired aesthetics and tailoring.
Carly Off-Shoulder One Piece Swimsuit, $308, andreaiyamah.com.
Founder and designer Kerby Jean-Raymond first gained fashion clicks in 2015 when he used his menswear show at New York Fashion Week to protest police brutality. Cut to 2018, where his streetwear label Pyer Moss won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award and partnered with Reebok on a collection. While it’s mainly a menswear label, there are a few pieces in the women’s collection, and the Reebok collab is a solid fashion investment. Pyer Moss is just ramping up, but if Jean-Raymond’s political, thoughtful runway shows are any indication, he has a lot to offer.
Crew Sock, US$20, pyermoss.com.
The Montreal-born, Toronto-based Lynn M. Sainté knows how to hustle. The self-taught designer has been building awareness for her label (named after her favourite fruit), by selling at local markets like the Black Owned Holiday Market and Afrofest. Papaya & Co’s eye-catching blanket scarves, pouches, ties and logo-stamped tote bags are born from Sainté’s love of both expressive African wax prints and a streamlined, minimalist aesthetic.
African Print Blanket Scarf, $80, instagram.com. The brand is currently on hiatus.
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