How To Build An Easy—And Affordable!—Capsule Wardrobe

On a good day, getting dressed can be an empowering act of self-expression. On a bad day, it can leave you with a knee-high floordrobe and a confidence crisis.

The counterintuitive answer to this age-old conundrum? Pare things back, and embrace the capsule wardrobe. Using fewer pieces means you can wear the clothes you love more often, says Toronto-based fashion stylist and personal branding expert Julianne Costigan.

The idea of a capsule wardrobe isn’t new. It was popularized by designer Donna Karan, who introduced her “Seven Easy Pieces” in 1985 with a collection of day-to-night basics, which included a bodysuit, a dress, a skirt, a tailored jacket, a white shirt, a cashmere sweater and something made of leather, like a skirt or jacket.

Far from limiting your choices, a capsule wardrobe acts as a solid foundation that makes getting dressed easier. “People tend to have uniforms they feel confident in, and have many duplicates of those items,” explains Costigan. “The goal isn’t to have only seven pieces to work with, but to infuse the pieces you wear every day with a different kind of energy and give you options to style them in new ways.” The key is investing in pieces that can play multiple roles and be mixed, matched and styled together. “Think about it like a formula—it’s really just fashion math.”

How to Make a Capsule Wardrobe Work for You

Embrace your unique style

The beauty of a capsule wardrobe is that it can be customized to any taste, budget and lifestyle. “Your personal style comes from what makes you feel the best and the most confident,” says Costigan. Her fail-safe trick to help her clients figure out their style? She has them try on an outfit without looking at themselves in the mirror, and then asks them to describe how wearing it makes them feel. “Often people know what looks best on them before they see themselves.”

Find your colour palette

A minimalist wardrobe doesn’t necessarily mean a monochromatic one. When incorporating colour into your wardrobe, the key is to stick to a complementary palette so that everything can be paired together.

Make a splash with accessories

“You can really count on your accessories to pull a look together,” says Costigan. Adding a pair of shoes or a bag is an easy way to bring in colour and texture. Costigan’s styling MVP is a belt, which can be used to cinch a blazer, crop a top or define the waist. She also loves statement jewellery, like cuff bracelets and chunky chains. “It takes no effort and makes a big impact.”

Think twice about trends

Trends come and go fast, so it’s a good idea to reflect on how the latest fashion craze fits into your personal style before you take the plunge. “If there’s a trend you like that you know is not going to be around for long, an accessory is the best way to do it,” says Costigan.

7 Must-Have Pieces To Build a Capsule Wardrobe

1. A T-shirt

The humble tee is the base layer to nearly every outfit. White is an obvious choice, but you could also opt for pattern or colour. (Vintage graphic or band tees are also great to inject personality into your wardrobe.) Costigan loves to add texture with ribbed fabrics and typically opts for cotton for its breathability. In terms of fit, a slightly boxy cut gives you more styling options.

Our pick: Kotn Luxor Jersey Tee, $65

2. A crewneck cardigan

When it comes to knits, Costigan favours cardigans over sweaters. “It comes down to versatility: A cardigan can be buttoned up, worn open like a jacket, worn back-to-front to look like a sweater or layered.” Look for a structured knit that holds its shape for a polished look.

You can find good quality—sometimes handknit!—cardigans on the second-hand market. Look for natural fibres like cotton, wool and cashmere, and steer clear of anything that’s pilling.

Our pick: Sézane Emile Cardigan, $250

3. A button-down shirt

The boxy button-down is a timeless classic that can be worn countless ways: paired with denim, worn over a T-shirt or swimsuit, used as a lightweight jacket or layered under a knit. For a more casual look, roll up the sleeves. Scour the men’s department at your local thrift store for the best finds.

Our pick: Everlane The Boxy Oxford, $129

4. A blazer

If you associate blazers with corporate workwear, think again. Cool girls have reclaimed the formerly stuffy basic, and it’s now an appropriate going-out staple. Paired with jeans and a pair of heels, a blazer transitions effortlessly from office to cinq-à-sept. A tailored fit is timeless, but for a more casual vibe, opt for a menswear-inspired silhouette with strong shoulders and an oversized fit.

Our pick: Reitmans Linen Blazer, $100

5. A pair of wide-leg jeans

“A wide-leg pair of jeans can give the same tailored look as trousers,” says Costigan. You can opt for a black wash for versatility, but she also loves medium-tone denim, which works year-round and pairs well with colour. When shopping for denim, Costigan looks for a blend of cotton and elastane. “You go to work, get on the floor to play with your kids—you need to be comfortable.”

“You can get some really beautiful washes with vintage denim,” says Costigan, noting that trendy silhouettes inspired by the ’80s and ’90s can often be found at the thrift. Don’t be afraid to enlist a tailor’s help for some affordable but high-impact tweaks that will transform the fit, such as hemming or taking in the waist.

Our pick: RW&Co. Light-Wash Ultra-High-Rise Wide-Leg Jeans, $100

6. A slip dress

Worn on its own, over a tee or layered with a knit or a shirt to look like a skirt, a midi slip dress works both for daytime and evening looks. Look for silk or satin to add dimension and texture to your capsule wardrobe.

Shop the sleepwear department of your local thrift store for a silk nightgown trimmed with lace for a fun take on the slip dress.

Our pick: Reformation Emerick Slip Dress, $258

7. A jacket

For a spring capsule wardrobe, there are endless lightweight jacket options, including trench coats, denim jackets and quilted liners. Castigan’s go-to style is a barn jacket, which blends functionality and style, making an unexpected pairing with more feminine elements, like the slip dress. You can also take a page out of Donna Karan’s book with a chic leather trench or an edgy moto jacket.

Look for vintage styles made from 100 percent wool, and keep an eye out for rips in the lining and pockets, musty smells that may be hard to air out and missing buttons. If you’re shopping for a leather jacket, make sure the item doesn’t show signs of dry rot—such as discolouration, cracking or flaking.

Our pick: Uniqlo Trench Coat, $130