Best bone marrow dishes in North America

Taverne Gaspar, Montreal, 89 Rue de la Commune E. This old gastropub matches craft brews to updated comfort food.

The chef: Mario Guerrera departed from boutique hotel dining rooms like the W's and is clearly thriving. The dish: French Onion Soup with Bone Marrow. As if this hot, cheesy classic weren't rich enough, Guerrera ups the ante with a hit of pure animal fat perched on top. It gives deep base to the broth's sweetness. Cibo Trattoria, Vancouver, 900 Seymore St. Housed in the boutique Moda Hotel, Cibo is known for authentic Italian cuisine made with fresh local ingredients.

The chef: Faizal Kassam uses bone marrow in many ways — from a simple garnish for a bison steak to salsa. The dish: Gnocchi with Braised Veal Osso Bucco, Bone Marrow and Gremolata. Kassam substitutes gnocchi for the traditional risotto Milanese and adds the zing of lemon, raw garlic and parsley in the gremolata.

The County General, Toronto, 936 Queen St. W. This tiny spot on hip West Queen West is the down-home satellite of chic Splendido.

The chef: Garth Legree has a simple approach with a gourmet dash. The dish: Roasted Marrow Bone, stripped down and old school, garnished with parsley, parmesan and panko bread crumbs. It's one small bone, so it won't spoil anyone's appetite and just might be the city's best fine dining bargain at $5. Salt & Straw, Portland, Oregon, 2035 N.E. Alberta St. Not your everyday ice cream shop, this sweet "farm-to-cone" operation started as a street cart.

The chef: Tyler Malek sources the best local ingredients (including, of course, cream) for wildly original flavours. The dish: Bone Marrow Smoked Cherry Ice Cream. Malek adds rendered bone marrow to the base, smoked cherries, tea and bourbon whiskey for a grown-up, velvety treat.