Pad gaprao, sometimes written (incorrectly) as pad kra pao, is a true staple of the Thai diet. It’s sold by street vendors and at fancy restaurants, and made at home all over the country. I call this the “old school” version because it’s the old style that differs from the newer variants that are more popular today. It’s much simpler, seasoned with only fish sauce, and has no vegetables, so the flavour of the basil really shines. Modern variations include soy sauce, oyster sauce, and veggies like onions and long beans. There’s no wrong way to do it, and I want to share this piece of history before it disappears—and also because it’s much simpler to make than modern versions, but equally delicious! —Pailin Chongchitnant